7 Skincare Ingredients You Need to Know

We all want healthy, glowing skin, but with so many skincare products and key ingredients, it can take time to decide which ones to invest in. When choosing skincare ingredients to add to your skin routine, it is crucial to consider your individual skin concerns. The good news is whether you're looking to reduce the signs of aging, combat acne, or improve hydration levels, there's an ingredient that can help.

Here, we break down seven of the most effective and commonly used skincare ingredients—retinoids, vitamin C, peptides, ceramides, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and AHAs. Each ingredient has unique benefits and can be incorporated into your skincare routine in different ways. So, let's dive in and discover how these powerful skincare ingredients can transform your skin, according to science and the experts that know them best.

Retinoids
Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from vitamin A that are widely used in skincare. They offer many benefits for the skin, making them a popular ingredient in anti-aging products. One of the main advantages of retinoids is their ability to stimulate metabolic processes within the skin (AKA increase cell turnover and promote the growth of new cells). "[Retinoids] speed cell turnover and support collagen and elastin fiber synthesis, thus, promoting smoother and firmer skin texture and making the signs of aging, like fine lines and wrinkles, less noticeable," says Valerie Aparovich, certified cosmetologist-aesthetician, biochemist, and team lead at OnSkin. Retinoids regulate sebum production, which means oily and combination skin types will rejoice when introduced to this ingredient. Specifically, retinoids bind to specific receptors in skin cells that increase cell turnover, thus preventing the buildup of dead skin cells and excess oil that can clog pores and lead to acne. In short, they work wonders for acne-prone skin by combating inflammation, reducing breakouts, and exfoliating dead cells to prevent pore clogging. One thing to note is there are a few different forms of retinoids available, including retinol, tretinoin, tazarotene, adapalene, and plant-derived alternatives, such as bakuchiol. The latter, bakuchiol, is shown to be most suitable for sensitive skin. Some practitioners consider bakuchiol safe for use when pregnant (compared to other forms of retinoids that are generally advised against by professionals during pregnancy and breastfeeding); however, Aparovich notes that there may not be enough research to support this use and that future research may prove it to be unsafe.

When using retinol, it's recommended to begin with one to two applications per week, says Aparovich. This will ensure your skin won't experience any side effects such as dryness or irritation. Additionally, retinol should be reserved for your nighttime skincare routine only because they are UV-sensitive, which may cause skin irritation when exposed to sunlight.

Vitamin C
Though vitamin C is a key ingredient in your daily glass of morning OJ, in skincare, the water-soluble vitamin plays an essential role in maintaining your skin's health. As a powerful antioxidant abundant in human skin, vitamin C protects the skin, your body's largest organ, from free radicals, known to accelerate signs of aging, says Aparovich. This makes it yet another excellent choice for preventing premature signs of aging.” Regular use of vitamin C also promotes collagen synthesis, improving the skin's texture, firmness, and overall resilience. It can also brighten the skin, making your complexion more even and radiant. 

Vitamin C is generally safe for all skin types, including sensitive skin, although it is important to note that allergies to the ingredient are possible. When using a vitamin C product, store it in a dark, cool place to maintain its efficacy, advises Aparovich.

Peptides
Known as the building blocks for protein in the skin, peptides are amino acids that are used to improve skin elasticity, support aging skin by promoting collagen production, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Peptides also strengthen the skin's barrier, improving the skin's ability to heal itself, all while reducing inflammation and irritation.

For those suffering from dry or dehydrated skin, you'll be happy to know that peptides provide deep hydration. Whether you use them in the morning or at night, peptides are generally safe and effective. You can easily incorporate peptide serums into your skincare routine by applying them after toner and before moisturizer, according to Aparovich.

Ceramides
Ceramides are lipids in the skin's outermost layer that help maintain a healthy barrier. They are known to prevent water loss, locking in moisture to promote deep hydration while reducing flakiness and peeling, explains Aparovich. Ceramides also strengthen the skin's ability to defend itself against environmental stressors and can improve compromised skin barriers. As we age, our skin's natural ceramide levels decrease, leading to the development of fine lines and wrinkles. Ceramide-based products can help combat signs of aging by nourishing the skin with fatty molecules, improving its suppleness, resilience, and smoothness. Ceramides have also been found to ease the symptoms of eczema and psoriasis, conditions associated with weakened skin barriers and reduced immune response, Aparovich shares with Shape.

To reap the full benefits of this star ingredient, Aparovich suggests applying ceramide-rich products twice a day (in the morning and at night) after cleansing and toning your skin. The ideal time to use ceramides is right after a shower, as they work best when locking in extra moisture, she adds. For best results, it's recommended to layer ceramides with hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or collagen.

Hyaluronic Acid
Speaking of hyaluronic acid, this key ingredient has gained and remained popular in skincare for many reasons. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring humectant that attracts and retains water. In skin care specifically, this H2O magnet helps maintain healthy hydration levels and prevents water loss, providing immediate results. Similarly to ceramides, the production of hyaluronic acid decreases as we age, causing the skin to lose its volume, warns Aparovich. Incorporating hyaluronic acid into your skincare routine can help plump the skin and reduce the signs of aging.

Hyaluronic acid can be found in various skincare products, including cleansers and serums. Products should be selected based on individuals' preferences, adds Aparovich. Generally, topical products containing hyaluronic acid have no known side effects, but as with any new skincare ingredient or product you introduce to your skin, she says. It is recommended to conduct a patch test to ensure no individual allergic reactions.

Niacinamide
Niacinamide, a derivative of vitamin B3, is a powerhouse ingredient that offers a wider range of benefits, including anti-aging and UV damage protection. Moreover, it is an excellent option for people with oily, acne-prone skin as it can regulate sebum production and reduce redness and inflammation. Niacinamide is also known to improve collagen synthesis, increase skin firmness and resilience, and fade hyperpigmentation.

Generally, niacinamide is suitable for most skin types. However, it is recommended to start with a lower concentration (5% or lower) for oily yet sensitive skin and a higher concentration (around 10%) for combination, acne-prone skin, says Aparovich. It's also worth noting that (like other water-soluble vitamins) your body doesn't store niacinamide, and you must receive it through your diet from animal sources, green veggies, and grains.

AHAs
Short for alpha hydroxy acids, this group of acids is primarily derived from plant sources and acts as chemical exfoliants for the skin. The most common forms of AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid, and malic acid. In the skin care world, AHAs are known as superhero ingredients for removing dead skin cells, cleansing pores, and reducing sebum production, making them an excellent option for oily and acne-prone skin, explains Aparovich. AHAs can also brighten and even out skin tone and reduce acne scars on the skin surface (e.g., in chemical peels).

Using AHAs can have significant benefits for your skin, but it's essential to use them properly, notes Aparovich. For example, AHAs can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV rays, so it's best to use them at night and follow up with sunscreen during the day. It's also important to be mindful of the concentration and frequency of use, as overuse can cause peeling and redness, especially for those with sensitive or dry skin, Aparovich warns.

As you can see, knowing the right key ingredients to incorporate into your skincare routine is essential to maintaining your skin's health. These star ingredients offer unique benefits that address various skin concerns, from aging to hyperpigmentation. Regardless of the ingredient, it's important to follow the expert-recommended tips and be mindful of potential side effects. Also, when looking for a skincare routine catered to your individual needs, it's essential to consult with a professional.