The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 2023 Costume Institute exhibition and gala is “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty,” celebrating Lagerfeld’s enduring legacy, along with the translation of his 2D renderings to their final 3D form. And though said legacy may not be immediately synonymous with makeup, those familiar with his creative process know that Chanel’s longtime creative director enjoyed a unique relationship with beauty products—particularly eye shadow. To create his iconic sketches, Lagerfeld relied on unique mediums like Tipp-Ex Whiteout (the better to communicate volume and texture) and eye shadow, particularly from Shu Uemura’s cultish palettes. 

“The makeup, I don’t have any clue now when it came—many years ago,” says Caroline Lebar, SVP of image and communications at Karl Lagerfeld. “It came as a surprise for everyone because we did not see that it was makeup. Karl was always drawing at home, so we could not know what kind of material he was using.” After dreaming and drawing, Lagerfeld would arrive with a folder of creations and scrutinize the sketches with Anita Briey (the director of the atelier), determining how best to transmute them to garment form. 

Though the use of shadow may have begun with any number of pots and palettes, it soon filtered down to one: Shu Uemura. Lagerfeld became enamored with a specific red, which, once discovered, was incorporated into sketches for the remainder of his career. In fact, when the brand was forced to discontinue the hue due to lead content, Mr. Uemura re-created the color for Lagerfeld. 

Lagerfeld’s artistic tendencies extended well beyond the atelier, with his creative touch offered to cars, furniture, and art alike. But his sketches continue to inspire—and fetch exorbitant sums—for their expert hand, old-world air, and attention to detail (often a result of the aforementioned red).
To Lebar, the inclusion of makeup lent more to Lagerfeld’s creative enjoyment and the elegance of the sketches than to the resulting designs. “He was using [the eye shadow] to make a contour or to create a beautiful shadow,” says Lebar. “It’s not the same look and feel as a pastel, for example—it’s less brusque, less bold…it’s very light.”

“I think, really, sometimes it was out of patience, the way he was drawing,” she says of Lagerfeld’s uncompromising attention to detail. It’s that very approach that allowed him to transcend one medium, morphing and melding the designations of designer and artist. And though Lagerfeld did insist that fashion does not belong in a museum, his drawings, details and all, belie his opinion—at least in this instance. 

Exfoliating can be an effective way to give your skin a new lease on life. It removes dead skin cells, helps unclog pores, and can even brighten dull-looking skin. Still, if you’re not careful, you could do more harm than good. That’s why it’s important to know how to safely exfoliate at home. If you’re new to DIY exfoliation, read on for tips to help make your home exfoliation experience as safe and effective as possible. 

What is exfoliation, anyway?
Exfoliation is the process of removing a buildup of dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. Physical exfoliation includes using tools like a face scrub, loofah, or washcloth to manually remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, while chemical exfoliation involves the use of acids like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) to break down bonds between the skin cells

What are the benefits of exfoliation?
Fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation appear on the skin as we age. Introducing exfoliation to your skincare routine can significantly reduce these issues and improve the look and feel of your skin. Here are some of the benefits of exfoliation, according to experts: 

• Improves skin texture. Skin exfoliation helps to slough off dead cells, leaving you with smoother, softer-feeling skin.

• Unclogged pores. By removing a layer of dead skin cells, exfoliation helps to unclog pores and make them appear smaller.

• Brighter complexion. Exfoliation helps reduce the appearance of dark spots, giving skin a brighter, more even-toned look.

• Better absorption of skincare products. Exfoliating allows skincare products to penetrate the skin more effectively, resulting in better results overall.

Exactly How To Exfoliate Your Face—Without Ruining Your Skin


What are the are two types of exfoliation?

• Mechanical: Mechanical exfoliation typically employs a tool (like an oscillating cleansing brush or even a washcloth) or face scrub to physically remove the dead skin cells. If you go the scrub route, the finer the particle, the better off you’ll be because they’re less abrasive. 
• Chemical: Chemical exfoliators, on the other hand, use alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) - or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) (think: a face wash with salicylic acid or a facial peel pad or moisturizer with glycolic acid) to dissolve the sticky glue that holds these cells together, says Dr. Shah. According to Dr. Shah, retinoids can also be considered exfoliants, since they also work to increase cell turnover. “I find that if people are using retinoids, they don’t really need to exfoliate on top of that,” she says.

The best exfoliating method for you really depends on your preferences, as well as what kind of skin you have (more on that in a sec). But TBH, Dr. Shah says that dermatologists are recommending chemical exfoliation more than mechanical methods these days, especially since scrubs have the potential to create small tears in the skin

How do you exfoliate your face?
Here’s how to safely execute facial exfoliation from the comfort of your home:

Step 1: Identify your skin type.
Different skin types require different types of exfoliation, so it’s important to Identify your skin type before you begin. Not sure what your skin type is? Look closely in the mirror to assess it. 

Dry skin is characterized by a lack of moisture, often leading to flakiness, tightness, and rough texture. Factors like cold weather, harsh soaps, and hot showers may cause or worsen it. 

Oily skin is caused by excess sebum production, which may result in a shiny appearance and enlarged pores. It’s prone to breakouts and acne due to the buildup of oil and dead skin cells.

Combination skin presents as a mix of dry and oily skin, typically featuring an oily T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) and drier cheeks. It requires a balanced skincare routine to address both areas without exacerbating either condition. Sensitive skin is prone to redness, irritation, and itching. It may react negatively to certain skincare products, environmental factors, or allergens. If you haven’t noticed any of the above in your skin, you may have normal skin. 

Normal skin is well-balanced, with an even distribution of moisture and sebum. It has a healthy appearance, small pores, and is generally less prone to breakouts

Step 2: Choose the right exfoliator for your skin. 
Once you’ve identified your skin type, it’s time to choose the right exfoliator.  For example, people with dry skin should use gentler chemical exfoliators, while those with oily skin can benefit more from manual exfoliators. However, a scrub might not be the best option for acne-prone skin, which would instead benefit from chemical exfoliants like toners or peels.

Step 3: Prepare your skin for exfoliation 
To prepare your skin for exfoliation, wash your face with a gentle cleanser and warm water. This will help to remove dirt and excess oil from your skin, allowing the exfoliator to penetrate deeper and work more effectively. 

Step 4: Exfoliate.
Once your skin is prepped, it’s time to exfoliate. Take a small amount of your chosen exfoliator and apply it to your face in a circular motion. For physical exfoliators, use gentle strokes; for chemical exfoliators, use a circular tapping motion. Continue for one to two minutes, then rinse with lukewarm water.

Step 5: Moisturize.
Once you’ve finished exfoliating, following up with a moisturizer is important. Use a light, non-greasy moisturizer to hydrate and protect skin. Additionally, using facial oil after exfoliating can help to seal in moisture and provide additional protection. 

How often should you exfoliate your face?
When it comes to the frequency of exfoliation, it’s important to find the right balance. Exfoliate too often, and you risk causing skin irritation, breakouts, blackheads, and other issues. On the other hand, infrequent exfoliation can lead to dull, congested skin. Factors that affect the frequency of exfoliation include skin type, age, health, and lifestyle. If you have sensitive skin, start off slow and only exfoliate once or twice a week, then gradually increase the frequency as your skin adjusts. You can exfoliate two to three times a week if you have normal or oily skin. 
As a general rule, less is more. The goal is NOT to turn beet-red or to feel a sting—it’s to gently help along your body’s natural exfoliation process so that your face glows. As for specifics on how often you should exfoliate, it depends on your skin type.

• For sensitive skin: According to Dr. Shah, people with sensitive skin usually have trouble finding facial skin-care products that aren’t irritating. Their skin tends to turn red and often gets itchy, she explains. If that sounds like you, she advises skipping exfoliation altogether. But if you feel like you have to exfoliate, just use a creamy cleanser with a low percentage of glycolic acid once a week, she says.
• For oily skin: People with oily skin might see a fine sheen on their face pretty early into the day, according to Dr. Shah. “And if you’re prone to acne, or you feel like your pores get clogged often, that’s usually an indication of excess sebum production, which is associated with oily skin,” she says. If you do have oily skin, you have a lot more freedom with your regimen—Dr. Shah says you can exfoliate up to four times per week (just make sure you work up to it over time), and your skin can probably tolerate both chemical and mechanical exfoliation. One option for your regimen, according to Dr. Shah, is to use an AHA-based cleanser two to three times per week and a facial peel pad once per week. Alternatively, you might work up to using a retinoid every day.
• For normal to combination skin: Dr. Shah advises exfoliating twice per week by using a retinoid or an AHA or BHA cleanser.

How to exfoliate your face
Mechanical Exfoliation

1. Using a clean brush or your favorite scrub, move in small, gentle, circular strokes around your face, says Dr. Shah.
2. Keep your movements light. Shah says think of it more like caressing flower petals rather than rubbing a stain out of your favorite shirt.
3. Rinse with lukewarm water so your freshly exfoliated face isn’t irritated by hot water.
4. Pat face dry and apply moisturizer. Don't skip this—Dr. Shah says exfoliation is always a bit drying.

Chemical Exfoliation

1. Take your favorite chemical exfoliant and apply gently in small, circular motions after cleansing.
2. If it's a product that sits on your face (like a peel), follow the package directions for how long you should wait before rinsing off your face. If it's a face wash, lightly rinse your face with lukewarm water.
3. Pat face dry and apply moisturizer. Again, don't skip this step!

When should you skip exfoliation?
If you're mid-breakout, you might be tempted to go to town with exfoliants—but you should actually avoid abrasive mechanical methods. Exfoliation in a lot of my acne patients doing more harm than good.

Why? If you have cystic or chronic acne, your skin is already inflamed. So irritating it further with harsher exfoliants can leave behind dark marks known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The marks can last even longer (and happen more often) in people who have tan to deeper skin tones, Dr. Shah adds. As for chemical exfoliants, they can help in some cases, she explains, but it’s best to get advice from your dermatologist before going for it, because you’ll want to take a more nuanced approach to your exfoliation regimen.

Other times you should hold off on exfoliation: when you have any kind of cut or open wound on your face, if you have an infection on your face like a cold sore (it'll spread!), or if you're sunburned. Moisturizer and TLC is more of what your skin needs during those times.

Men’s makeup has come a long way in recent years, and some of us are still learning how to apply it. According to a recent survey by the YouGov portal in the United Kingdom, about 1 in 20 British people do it, 1 in 50 do it weekly and 1 in 100 do it daily. They are very beautiful people. And that shouldn’t surprise us, given that the men’s personal care industry is booming and is estimated to be worth over 550 million euros in countries like the United Kingdom. Mentioning Spain but from 2018, the percentage of Spanish men wearing makeup is 17%, according to data collected on the same platform. Whether your skin is a bit dull or you just want to look and feel better, makeup for men is the best option that you should explore. 

Below you’ll find Bougeoir's guide to getting started with men’s makeup, covering up skin, concealing dark circles, applying foundation, concealer and powder, and grooming your beard and eyebrows.

Beginner’s Guide to Makeup for Men

1. Preparation is key
It goes without saying, but if you want to look great in makeup, you have to start with healthy skin: It’s important to prepare your skin so that the makeup you apply, such as foundation or concealer, not only set well on the skin, but lasts all day.  Before anything else, make sure you use a good cleanser and warm water to wash your face, followed by a moisturizer. Once this is done, apply a primer to help create the best possible base for any makeup.

2. Banish Those Dark Circles
Dark circles can take years on us. Even if you get enough sleep and stay hydrated, sometimes they don’t go away. Using eye cream to get rid of them is a good start, but there’s a simpler trick that may be more effective. “A great trick is to store the cream in the fridge to wake up and refresh tired eyes,”  “Anything that’s refreshing will help reduce puffiness in the eyes.”

3. Extends makeup well
Are you ready? Great. One of the biggest mistakes they make when they start applying makeup is not applying it well. If you want your makeup to look as natural as possible, use a brush or sponge to apply it. “When you apply your foundation or tinted moisturizer, blend it all over your face up to your hairline and down your neck to make sure it looks natural. Take extra care in areas that tend to wrinkle, such as around the nose and under the eyes.”

4. Be careful with the eyes
The eye area is very delicate, so when you apply a product to that area, whether it’s a cream or concealer, use your ring finger to tap into the skin and blend. “The skin around the eyes is much thinner than the skin on the rest of the face, so it’s hardest to use your ring fingers. If you tap or pat instead of pulling, you’ll be taking better care of your skin in the long run.”

5. Avoid sweat shine
When we are very busy in our day to day, sometimes sweating is inevitable and it shows a bit on our skin. If you’re concerned, use translucent face powder. This will help you to remove that shine to some extent and get a matte finish.“Gently apply the powder in a circular motion to areas of the face that can cause shine. Most likely it’s the T-zone, which includes the forehead, nose, and chin.”

6. Groom your beard and eyebrows
​Do you feel that your beard and eyebrows are in bad shape? If you’ve got the hint (no personal attack, we promise), consider that you can make your facial hair look even more attractive with a makeup pencil. Women have been doing it for decades and we can too. “Really sharpen your pencil so you can draw hair-like strokes to fill in any patches or light areas. “If you want to blend and shape your hairs for a more natural look, get a small comb and lightly brush your brows in the right direction.” You are going to be very beautiful.

When choosing new skincare products, it’s imperative to know which ones will mix and layer well together. Based on your skin type, it might be tricky to figure out which products complement each other the best, and you might go through some trial-and-error.  Here, Bougeoir guides you on your new skincare routine with a list of skincare ingredients that you should never mix together.


Oil and Water
First up is the most obvious combination we all know don't mix: oil and water. Oil repels water, so if you try to layer a water-based product over an oil-based product, like a balm, a film will be left on your skin that will prevent the water from absorbing. If you must use these two products in your routine, layer the oily product over the water-based one. But overall, stick to using water-based products and serums together.


Vitamin C and AHAs and BHAs
 AHAs and BHAs such as glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acids should never be used with Vitamin C.  Vitamin C is an acid, too, and is unstable, so the pH balance will be thrown off by layering these ingredients together and might as well be useless.


Retinol and Vitamin C
Retinol shouldn’t be used with Vitamin C either, because they’re both active ingredients. Retinol helps build collagen but it also creates skin cell turnover, so using it with an acid like Vitamin C can cause more irritation. Instead, use retinol at night and Vitamin C during the day. Retinol tends to work better with moisturizing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and SPF.


Vitamin C and Niacinamide
Niacinamide is found with Vitamin C in some multi-ingredient serums as antioxidants, but it’s never a good idea to layer them together. Both ingredients are helpful for improving acne, but used together, they can actually trigger breakouts and their helpful properties can be diminished. If you have to use them together, apply them at least 10 minutes apart.

AHAs and BHAs and Retinol
Retinol combined with these acids is a literal recipe for disaster, leaving your skin dry and irritated, since the main job of AHAs and BHAs is to exfoliate, which retinol already effectively does. It’s better to mix AHAs and BHAs with moisturizing ingredients and SPF.


Niacinamide and AHAs and BHAs
Niacinamide used with AHAs and BHAs together have no effect and can actually cause redness. Because niacinamide has a pH of around 5-7, it can actually raise the lower pH of the acids, which is around 3-4, and cancel out its properties. Used separately, both ingredients can help skin texture, acne, and signs of aging, so we encourage you to still use them.


Retinol and Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide and retinol deactivate each other, so they should never be used together.
​

There is so much information out there about skincare, but how do you know who to trust?  One thing we do know for sure, however, is that mixing certain products during your routine can either cause significant damage or can heal your skin barrier, no matter what skin type you have. Bougeoir has done some solid research to give you a well-rounded guide to what products you should be mixing for radiant skin.

Retinol and Peptides
Known for drying up active acne and tightening those fine lines, retinol is the way to go. Although it does have plenty of benefits, the product does have some drawbacks. Without proper care, retinol has the capacity to dry up your skin and damage your skin barrier. That's why you need nourishing  peptides  to layer on top. Peptides make your skin more durable and help with any irritation from the retinol. 

Antioxidants and Sunscreen
We don't often realize the effects sun damage can have on our skin until it's too late.  Sunscreen is a necessary addition to your skincare routine, and it's important to apply it multiple times throughout the day. If you're looking to amplify your sun protection one step further, adding antioxidants is the way to go. Not only will it add an extra barrier, it will also make your skin feel soft and refreshed. One of the easiest ways to get this combo is to find an SPF that contains antioxidants, making a two-step process into one.

Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid
At first glance, you may think pairing two acids together isn't a good idea; however, these two make the perfect team. Salicylic acid is known for breaking down any debris or oil that has built up underneath your skin, while glycolic acid, a more gentle exfoliant, acts as a protective barrier and only plays a role on the surface of your skin. With that being said, we still do recommend using a thicker moisturizer on top to prevent irritation. 

Vitamin C + Vitamin E
Vitamin E is no slouch as a skin care ingredient itself, but when paired with vitamin C, the Linus Pauling Institute at Oregon State University states that the combination is more “effective in preventing photodamage than either vitamin alone.” Both work by negating free radical damage, but each combats different types of UV damage. By adding vitamin C and E serums into your routine, or using products that contain both, you’re giving your skin double the antioxidant ammunition to fight damage from free radicals and more UV damage than vitamin C by itself.

Vitamin C + Vitamin E + Ferulic Acid
By now you’re probably wondering: if vitamin C and E is good, and vitamin C and ferulic acid is too, what about a combination of all three? The answer is rhetorical: Do you love stability and antioxidants? It’s the best of all worlds, offering triple the protective powers.
With antioxidants like vitamin C and E working in tandem to undo the damage caused by UV rays, you’re probably thinking how it makes sense to apply this combination under your sunscreen for extra UV protection. And you’d be right.

Vitamin C and Ferulic Acid
On its own, vitamin c can help brighten your skin and make it look healthier, but it isn't working to its full potential. Because it's a thinner product, it won't last too long when exposed to sunlight. That's why ferulic acid is a step you won't want to miss. When combined with vitamin C, ferulic acid gives the product a long shelf life, making it worth those extra dollars.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Squalane
Although not widely known, squalane, a deeply moisturizing oil, can be essential when using heavier products such as AHAs. The acids can be really harsh on your skin, causing redness and itchiness if not careful. Layering squalane on top of these products will not only help ease any discomfort but will also help retain moisture. 

Niacinamide and Hyaluronic Acid
Niacinamide has been everywhere lately and with reason. Most products need specific pairings to work properly; however, this one works universally. As a form of vitamin B3,, niacinamide is found in many of the foods we eat, including meat, fish, and dairy products, so why not nourish our faces with it as well? The product is known for preserving skin youthfulness and smoothing the appearance of fine lines or bumps. Pairing it with hyaluronic acid will lead to a glowy, natural complexion

We spend a lot of time slathering skincare products across our face and nourishing our hair with oils and potions. We even budget a good chunk of our time and money for monthly manicures. Our feet tend to get the short end of the stick in terms of self-care, but they’re just as worthy of some TLC as all the rest. Enter: The foot facial, which is similar to a pedicure but so much more. “A foot facial is considered a multi-step routine for your feet—including nail beds and soles—that is customized to address your concerns,” explains Marcela Correa, a licensed professional medical pedicurist and owner of NYC’s Medi Pedi. “Foot facials utilize different tools and products to maintain healthy, soft feet that are always sandal ready and pain free.” 

Indulging in a professional foot facial is a nice treat, but you can also give yourself a foot facial at home. We’re diving into the benefits of foot facials, discussing ideal frequency, and offering a step-by-step rundown on how to DIY your own. 

The Benefits of Foot Facials 
Aside from the aesthetic benefits—we all love a cute pedi peeking out of stylish sandals—caring for the skin on our feet is important from a health perspective. “Dry, cracked, and callused skin serves as a portal of entry for fungus and bacteria,” explains Anne Sharkey, DPM, a podiatrist based in Austin, Texas. Keeping skin clean, exfoliated, and moisturized ensures that our skin barrier is in the best shape possible to prevent these pathogens from entering our body.” 

Correa agrees, adding that when we’re digilent about our foot health we’re also more apt to catch minor issues before they morph into something greater. Think changes to your nail beds or the soles of your feet. 


“More often than not, when we aren't looking at our feet daily, small clues go unnoticed that alert you to other problems,” notes Correa. “[Foot care] is the missing link in preventative care and avoiding long-term and hard to deal with ailments. Your feet are your body’s foundation. The smallest change can throw off your way of life.” 


How Often Should You Do Foot Facials? 
Tex Song, DPM, a podiatrist at OrthoSouth in Memphis, Tenn. recommends getting a professional, customized foot facial every one to two months. From there, you can supplement with at-home foot facials that keep your feet feeling and looking healthy and happy. 


“People who spend more time on their feet due to their occupation or from sports may benefit from more frequent treatment to relieve the stress and tension on the lower extremity,” notes Dr. Song. 


That said, remember that it’s natural for calluses to develop over time, especially in relation to our personal activity level and how much we walk. That said, foot facials are sometimes less about removing the “ugly” things, and more about ensuring good foot hygiene. Dr. Song says, “Don't make the mistake of overdoing it and going to have a foot facial every day as this can damage your skin and make it more vulnerable to injury.” 


How to Give Yourself a Foot Facial at Home 
Step 1: Cleanse & Soak
Start by cleansing your feet with some soap and water. Next, soak your feet in some epsom salt and warm water for 15 minutes. “I love an epsom salt soak,” says Dr. Sharkey. “Epsom salts have been shown to ease aches and pains, gently exfoliate, and moisturize the feet.” She recommends the Pedestrian Project Purifying Foot Soak ($14; Amazon). You only need about two tablespoons per half gallon of water. 


Step 2: Exfoliate  
Gentle exfoliation can help smooth your feet for that baby soft feeling. Dr. Sharkey says you can opt for either mechanical/physical exfoliation or a chemical exfoliation. 


“Mechanical exfoliation uses scrubbing to remove the dry and callused skin. My favorite and most recommended methods of mechanical exfoliation are the use of sea salt scrubs and foot files,” she says. Try Dr Teal's Restore & Replenish Pink Himalayan Sea Salt Scrub ($6; Target) and/or Colossal Foot File and Callus Remover ($10; Amazon). 


Chemical exfoliation breaks down dead skin cells to reveal fresh skin underneath. Try The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Exfoliating Toning Solution ($13; Sephora), a gentle treatment that’s gone viral on social media for its ability to make feet baby smooth. 


Step 3: Treatment
Now’s your chance to customize your foot facial for your specific needs. For those dealing with dry and cracked skin, Dr. Shakey recommends first applying a heel repair balm, such as Pedestrian Project Cracked Heel Repair ($14; Amazon), to aid in the healing of cracks. She adds, “Using socks immediately after balm and lotion application can help to increase absorption, as well.”


If your cuticles could use some attention, Correa recommends working a nourishing oil into the cuticles and nails. One of her favorites is the Gehwol Nail Care Oil ($26; Nordstrom) since it also helps stimulate nail growth while strengthening the nails.


This is also a good time to apply any treatment creams for nail fungus or discoloration, as recommended by your podiatrist, dermatologist, or physician. You can also trim your toenails if they’re getting long. However, Correa says to make sure to trim and file them straight across to prevent ingrown toenails.


Step 4: Moisturize
Finally, take some time to apply a layer of moisturizer over your feet. Your best bet is a thick foot cream with emollient ingredients that help lock in moisture. L'Occitane Shea Butter Foot Cream ($30; Sephora) or Palmer's Cocoa Butter Formula Foot Magic ($5; Target). 

If you've ever wondered, What's the difference between lip oil and lip gloss? We certainly have. So, we went straight to the experts to get an answer to this burning beauty question. According to beauty pros, there are plenty of similarities and differences between the two. For example, glosses provide more of a mega-watt shine and intense color payoff but often come with a sticky finish, while hydrating lip oils leave the lips coated in a hint of color plus shine. Essentially, each offers unique benefits, making them must-haves for different reasons. Ahead, learn more about the nuances of lip glosses versus lip oils.

What Is Lip Oil? 
Lip oils are lighter than lip glosses but heavier than lip balms. Typically, they are formulated with at least one type of naturally derived or plant-based oil (most boast a combination of two to three differently weighted oils for a cushiony feel), such as coconut, almond, avocado, sunflower seed, or jojoba oils alongside vitamin E and hyaluronic acid. Since the lips do not contain oil glands, cosmetic chemist Ginger King says lip oils help to keep them hydrated. "For a lip oil to feel comfortable on the lips and have a protective effect, ingredients like polyglyceryl-2 isostearate and dimer dilinoleate copolymer are often used," she explains. "To make lip oils feel less greasy, manufacturers often use a combination of esters such as triisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, polybutene, diisostearyl malate, octyldodecanol, and polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate." Another common ingredient is hydrogenated polyisobutene (it also appears in plenty of glosses). Victoria Fu and Gloria Lu, cosmetic chemists and co-founders of Chemist Confessions, say hydrogenated polyisobutene is "one of the most commonly used ingredients in lip products because it provides shine while leaving the lips soft."
Although lip oils may offer more hydration and nourishment than other lip products, making them ideal for dry lips, they typically lack dense pigment and leave behind a sheer wash of color akin to a stain. That's why oils give your lips a natural, juicy look. 

What Is Lip Gloss? 
"[Lip gloss] gives the lips a glossy, almost vinyl look," King says. "It also helps the lips look plumper because the shine factor is more intense than what oil provides." However, not all lip glosses are equal. Some are sheerer, while others are highly pigmented and feature flecks of glitter or holographic pigments. According to King, the common thread amongst lip glosses is polybutene, an ingredient that gives it that thick, ultra-glossy look. Besides polybutene, most lip glosses contain a mix of oils, pigments, and waxes. Lu adds that with lip glosses, there are likely more thickeners and higher amounts of pigments to improve their wearability. "But, again, it depends on the formula," she adds.

The Similarities 
Ingredients 
There's a lot of overlap when it comes to lip oil and lip gloss formulas. For starters, skin-softening hydrogenated polyisobutene and thickening polybutene can be found in both products. This also holds true with castor and mineral oils. Natural oils are also a key ingredient in many lip oils and glosses. 

Hydration 
The key hydrating ingredients in most lip oils and glosses are naturally-derived oils (like argan and coconut) and hyaluronic acid. However, Fu says lip oils are positioned to be better hydrators than glosses, but every formula is unique. "There's no guarantee that lip oils hydrate more than gloss and vice versa," she notes.

Shine Factor 
Both lip gloss and lip oil leave the lips shiny to varying degrees. Generally, lip gloss is thought to provide more shine than lip oil because the formula sits on the lips; oil penetrates deeper into the lips to help heal and hydrate.

Plumping Capabilities 
There are many lip oils and glosses that focus on plumping. Many contain ingredients like peppermint oil, cinnamon, and peptides to increase lip fullness temporarily. King adds that pepper and ginger are also commonly found in plumping lip glosses and oils.

Layerablity 
Lip oil and gloss can be worn solo or layered on top of other products, like lip liner and lipstick. Layering a gloss or oil over other products enhances the appearance of everything underneath it. When layering lip gloss over lipstick, for example, you'll get more color payoff. When layering oil over lipstick, you'll create a shiny stain.

Ease of Use 
Lip oils and glosses are incredibly easy to use. Most come with a wand applicator. However, they may also be in packaging that features a rollerball or squeeze tube. These various formats allow the formula to be swiped on the lips in seconds.

The Differences 
Texture 
Lip oils are lighter in weight than gloss. On the flip side, lip glosses are formulated with more synthetic ingredients, which contributes to their thicker, stickier consistency. King adds that some lip glosses, especially those with stronger film-forming polymers (the ingredient that makes gloss sticky), can cause the lips to feel dry over time.

The Benefits 
 Lip oils moisturize the lips as they tend to be infused with nourishing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, plant-derived oils, and vitamin E. They also create a barrier between the delicate skin on the lips and environmental factors. Lip glosses typically don't provide this benefit.

Pigment 
Lip gloss leaves more color on the lips because it contains a higher pigment concentration. "They [offer] a more luscious, hydrated, high-gloss formula," Lu says. On the other hand, lip oils are far sheerer in color, giving your lips a perfect popsicle-stained effect.
Staying Power A key differentiator between lip oil and gloss is how long each lasts on the lips. Since oils hydrate the lips, their benefits usually last longer than gloss which sits on top of the lips and often requires reapplication throughout the day.

The Final Takeaway 
When choosing between lip gloss and lip oil, there's no wrong or right choice—it's all about personal preference. Pick the formula that provides the benefits you want, be it more hydration and nourishment (go with lip oil) or a super shiny finish and more pigment (lip gloss is probably the better choice ). 

If you're interested in reducing wrinkles and fine lines, chances are retinol will make its way into your vocabulary. Between its abilities to dramatically smooth skin—not to mention help with skin texture and tone, as well as clear up acne— retinol is a superstar ingredient among dermatologists. That said, when we talk about retinol, we are often referring to a whole class of ingredients called retinoids; retinol is just one of them. That's why we tapped Whitney Bowe, dermatologist and founder of Dr. Whitney Bowe Beauty, and Michelle Henry, dermatologist and founder of Skin & Aesthetic Surgery of Manhattan, to explain the differences. Plus, they get into the ingredients that are best suited for each skin type, as well as how to use it in your routine.

What Are Retinoids?
Encompassing ingredients like adapalene, tretinoin, and retinyl palmitate, “Retinoids are a class of skincare compounds derived from vitamin A that can help improve skin texture, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and treat acne,” explains Henry. “They work by increasing cell turnover, which helps unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and stimulate collagen production.” However, retinoids can vary in strength, with the strongest being available only by prescription. Bowe compares the different strengths to coffee: “On the strongest end of things, we have retinoic acid. Envision that as comparable to an IV of caffeine fluid—use your imagination here— that’s intense! But, it might not be for everyone,” she says. “On the next level, we have retinal. It’s like a powerful double shot of espresso or a potent cup of coffee. It gives you tremendous impact, but it’s not the same jolt as an IV. So, it’s going to be better tolerated by more people.” Finally, there’s retinol, or the most common ingredient: “We can envision retinol as a drip coffee, but you don’t get to finish the whole cup. So, it’s working, it’s helping, but it’s not anywhere near as powerful as that shot of espresso,” explains the derm.

What Is Retinol?
Though it tends to be used as a catch-all term for retinoids, retinol is actually more granular. “Retinol is a specific type of retinoid commonly found in over-the-counter skincare products," says Henry. “Although less potent than prescription-strength retinoids, it still has benefits such as improving skin texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and stimulating collagen production.” Unlike prescription-strength retinoids, retinol has a longer process to go through before it becomes effective. “Retinol needs to first be converted to retinal and then get converted to retinoic acid to get to work in your skin,” explains Bowe.

OK, So What About Retinal?
To make matters more confusing, there is a difference between retinol—with an o—and retinal—with an a. “Retinal, a.k.a retinaldehyde, is often considered to be the most potent vitamin A you can get without a prescription. It's 10 times more bioavailable than retinol, so it works faster, and a lot less is needed to drive impactful results,” says Bowe. Put another way, she says, “Your skin has to do less gymnastics if you choose retinal to address tone, texture, smoothing lines and wrinkles, and firming skin over time.” Because it is more potent, it’s important to look for a trusted formula so it doesn’t cause irritation. “Look for a product clinically tested on sensitive skin,” says Bowe, adding that the color should be bright yellow

Which Ingredient Is Suitable for Each Skin Type?
“Retinoids vary in strength, with prescription-strength retinoids being the strongest and fastest acting but causing more skin irritation than over-the-counter retinol products,” says Henry.
Generally, the strongest—and therefore least tolerable—is retinoic acid, which is only available via a prescription from your derm. “It’s also known as tretinoin. It’s the form that is biologically active and binds to the retinoid receptors in your skin and immediately goes to work,” says Bowe. However, “Not everyone can tolerate it, particularly people with sensitive skin.” But contrary to popular belief, nearly everyone can use some version of a retinoid (unless, it should be noted, you are pregnant or nursing). “Retinoids are suitable for most skin types, but those with sensitive or dry skin may experience more skin irritation and dryness,” says Henry, adding that “It is recommended to start with a lower concentration of retinoids and increase the dosage gradually.” But those with sensitive skin types shouldn't worry too much: Newer formulas are formulated just for skin like yours. “For sensitive skin, retinol or retinal may be better tolerated than prescription-strength retinoids,” says Henry. “Using formulations that contain soothing ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide, or hyaluronic acid can also help minimize skin irritation and dryness.” Unlike typical retinoids, there is no ramp up time, so you can see results in a shorter amount of time.”

How Should Retinol or Retinoids Be Incorporated Into Your Skincare Routine?
Bowe’s method of using retinol, known as skin cycling, has become skincare legend. Here’s how it works:

• Night 1, Exfoliation Night: Use a gentle cleanser, pat dry, use a leave-on exfoliating serum, and follow with moisturizer.
• Nights 2 and 3, Retinoid Nights: Use a gentle cleanser, pat dry, apply a pearl-sized amount of a retinoid to your face, another for your neck and 2-4 pumps more for the chest. Follow with a non-occlusive moisturizer.
• Night 4, Recovery Night: Use a gentle cleanser, a hydrating serum or vitamin C serum, and a nourishing moisturizer.

Whether you follow a skin cycling plan or not, Henry also reminds that with a retinol product, “Following the manufacturer's instructions for frequency and application is crucial, and starting with a lower concentration is recommended.” And, as always, “Sunscreen with a high SPF should be worn during the day.”

Bust cream, the French beauty secret to firm, perky breasts at any age. I know what you're thinking (oh god, not another area-specific moisturizer to add to my routine), but the French might be on to something. Bust creams are moisturizers that are specifically formulated to be used on the breast area. "Many bust creams contain ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and other humectants that hydrate the skin, caffeine or plant extracts that may help to improve skin elasticity and firmness, and retinol or peptides to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles," says Rebecca Marcus, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Maei MD. "Bust creams may also contain exfoliating agents such as AHAs or BHAs that can help smooth skin and improve it's texture." And yes, bust creams are perfectly safe to use. Think of them as skincare designed with the delicate skin on your breasts in mind. "In general, it can be massaged into the skin around the bust area one to two times per day," says Marisa Garshick, MD, board-certified dermatologist.

Some Of The Best Burst Creams

Sisley Paris Phytobuste + Décolleté Intensive Firming Bust Compound
Clarins Bust Beauty Firming Lotion
Elemis Pro-Collagen Neck and Décolleté Balm

There’s a good chance you’ve dutifully slathered your favorite facial creams for years now, but are you sure you’ve figured out the best way to apply your moisturizer? According to dermatologists, there’s an art to the process that helps ensure you’re getting the most out of this crucial skincare routine step. Read on for the full details, which include everything from how often you should apply moisturizer, where it falls in your regimen, and pro tips for maximizing the moisturizing benefits.

The Importance of Moisturizer
Your skincare routine consists of the following trinity holy grail: a cleanser, sunscreen, and moisturizer. While serums and retinols and other skincare treatments are worthwhile additions, it’s truly these three core products that lay the foundation for beautiful and healthy skin. “Moisturizers are designed to hydrate the skin and support the skin barrier while also working to soften and smooth the skin,” says Marisa Garshick, M.D., board-certified dermatologist. “Moisturizers use key ingredients such as humectants to draw moisture in, emollients to soften and smooth the skin, and occlusives to lock moisture in.” Our skin consistently loses moisture through a process called “trans epidermal water loss,” also known as TEWL. We also lose oil that’s naturally produced by our body when we shower or wash our face, which makes it doubly important to replenish moisture levels and foster a healthy skin barrier. “The skin barrier is the very outermost part of the epidermal layer that protects our bodies from environmental insults and enables the skin to hold on to moisture which prevents inflammatory skin conditions like atopic dermatitis,” notes board-certified dermatologist Lian Mack, M.D.. She adds, “Moisturizers reduce the risk of inflammatory skin conditions and add fundamental structures in the skin, improving the skin’s functionality.”

How to Choose the Best Moisturizer
Your skin type and needs play a key role in your moisturizer selection. If you choose a product that’s not suitable for your skin type, it can lead to issues such as breakouts, irritation, or not enough moisture.

• Acne & Oily Prone: “If you have oily or acne prone skin, reach for a moisturizer that is non-comedogenic to prevent clogging of pores and worsening of acne,” Dr. Mack advises. These are typically water-based and lightweight.
• Dry Skin: People with dry skin can and should use heavier moisturizers. “They benefit from a cream, ointment, or thicker lotion,” notes Dr. Garshick. Shea butter, jojoba oil, glycerin, and hyaluronic acid are common ingredients in moisturizers for dry skin.
• Sensitive Skin: Moisturizers for sensitive skin should be simple, fragrance-free formulas with barrier-boosting ingredients such as ceramides and peptides.

“During the cold, winter months, your skin may need a richer moisturizer than during the warmer months,” says Jeanette Graf, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist. Conversely, you may need a lighter product when it’s hot and humid. She adds, “Skincare should provide a pleasant feeling. So, with all of the choices available to you, use what feels good to your skin.”

How to Apply Moisturizer:
Step by StepFollow this step-by-step guide on the best way to apply moisturizer.

Step One: Wash Your Face
Prep for moisturizing by washing your face. Use a gentle, nourishing cleanser that adequately removes sweat, dirt, oil, makeup, and any lingering skincare products. Look for active ingredients that clarify the pores and gently exfoliate the skin. “It is important to always make sure to moisturize skin after it has been properly cleansed, as you want to make sure you are applying product to a surface that is free of bacteria, makeup, and other buildup,” Dr. Garshick explains. Gently pat dry, but don’t remove all moisture.
​
Step Two: Apply Other Skincare Products from Lightest to Heaviest
If you have a full-fledged skincare routine that includes toners, serums, essences, and/or treatment products, apply your products in order of lightest to heaviest consistency while your skin is still damp. Note that this doesn’t include sunscreen or makeup. Also, if you’re using a wash-off skincare treatment—such as a face mask or peel—apply that after cleansing and then rinse and apply your other products in proper order. If you don’t use other skincare products, you can skip this step.

Step Three: Apply Your Moisturizer
After slathering your other skincare products, you can apply moisturizer. Aim for about a quarter-size amount and make sure to reach every area, including your ears, hairline, neck, and decolletage.

Application Pro Tips:

• It’s best to apply moisturizer to damp skin, as this helps to lock in moisture. You can even give your skin a quick spritz of water before applying the moisturizer, advises board-certified dermatologist Debra Jaliman, MD.
• Don’t press hard or rub.
• Apply in an upward motion to help create a subtle lifting effect.
• Creams are best applied by patting them gently into the skin, notes Dr. Mack.
• Gel or water-based moisturizers should be applied in circular motions until they are completely absorbed.
• Dr. Mack says, “When applied, moisturizers should make skin feel hydrated but not oily.” If you over-apply, gently pat away excess product with a clean, damp washcloth.

Step Four: Apply Sunscreen and Makeup
In the morning, finish your skincare routine by applying sunscreen and then makeup if desired. No need to do this at night.

How Often Should You Apply Moisturizer?
You should moisturize no less than two times per day after washing your face, and any other time you’ve showered or washed (like after exercise or swimming). However, if your skin feels very dry, Dr. Garshick recommends reapplying moisturizer in the middle of the day. You can use a lighter product or even a moisturizing spray that won’t disrupt your makeup. Dr. Mack adds that people dealing with inflammatory skin conditions, like eczema or psoriasis, may also find midday moisturizing necessary.

Tiffany & Co.’s, historic Fifth Avenue flagship finally reopens on April 28 following a major four-year renovation. The 10-story, 110,000-square-foot emporium has been rechristened by Tiffany as “The Landmark” — owing to the mega-store’s significance in the jeweler’s 186-year history. It is thought to be the largest jewelry store in the world as well as the largest single-brand luxury boutique.
It carries the full range of Tiffany’s product offering, is filled with high-value contemporary art, a Daniel Boulud-led café and an experiential exhibit that takes shoppers inside the world of Audrey Hepburn and “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.” It is the most expensive single-brand store ever built by Tiffany’s holding company LVMH. Report by Bloomberg estimate that the renovation cost a minimum of $250 million, and it entails everything from specially designed secure cases to display high-value jewelry to custom area rugs that will be used at key Tiffany stores around the globe going forward. The renovation was devised by interior architect Peter Marino, along with a three-story glass roof addition by OMA that Tiffany is calling its “diamond on the roof.”




Floor 1
Enter into “The World of Tiffany,” or Landmark’s first floor that puts visitors in the middle of a New York City landscape. It includes top-selling products across the jeweler’s most popular collections and was designed to reflect the same caseline layout as seen in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s.” In lieu of windows, Tiffany commissioned CGI footage of Central Park and the Manhattan skyline that is broadcast floor-to-ceiling on screens that include more than 33 million pixels combined. In line with the jeweler’s sustainability goals, the projections are only run during operating hours. Floral arrangements that are changed three times weekly include flowers like the Tiffany Rose, along with apple blossoms and wisteria — some sourced from as far away as Egypt and Japan. On either side of the newly configured elevator banks — which brings the store’s fleet of lifts up to eight — are special exhibition vitrines that will display both the Tiffany Diamond and the Medusa Pendant upon the store’s opening on April 28.


Floor 2
Landmark’s staff of more than 150 sales associates will get their own restaurant. A café open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. will service Landmark personnel with what a representative deemed as “healthy” meals that will cost around $10 and can be ordered in advance on a specially developed app.


Floor 3
Landmark’s third story is dedicated to Love & Engagement. And it’s entirely different than the store’s previous, wood-paneled iteration. Undulating gold and copper-tone caselines — specially developed and made in Italy — now house Tiffany’s famous engagement rings. The space was envisioned as a warm, inviting corridor with four breakout rooms that couples can use for a more intimate sales experience. The “private salons” are each named for a floral motif and feature mirroring along the walls and ceiling for optimal cell phone documentation of the big moment. While it’s a big shift from the traditional environment Tiffany shoppers know, a representative said the jeweler is still open to arranging proposals à la “Sweet Home Alabama” and can help plan a full takeover of the space with enough notice.


Floor 4
Take the spiral staircase that begins on three — marked by a 12-foot tall Daniel Arsham bronze sculpture — up to Tiffany’s gold collections level. Decor on the fourth floor pays homage to the material most represented in its cases — with gold-tone textured metal wall placards and a matching celestial light fixture. Along the 57th Street windows are three environmental break-out boutiques — a room for watches, another for Paloma Picasso and a third for Elsa Peretti. Marino designed Peretti’s New York City apartment in the ’70s and used that project as reference for her individual Landmark space, which incorporates natural materials like cork caselines and sisal rugs.


Floor 5
It’s the floor most Tiffany fans will run for. Floor five is home to what Tiffany is calling “jewelry concepts” and will house its famous range of sterling silver designs. Onsite engraving — which used to be handled at a customer service center — will also be available on this level, along with personalized stamped blue boxes. For those services, guest sit on iridescent, Memphis, Tennessee-inspired Tiffany Blue chairs. Saunter down the hall and take in what Tiffany is calling “The Audrey Experience,” which pays homage to the iconic Truman Capote film that cemented the jeweler’s place in history. Givenchy made a special replica of Hepburn’s black gown from the film that will be displayed in a frosted vitrine that will go clear every few minutes to keep visitors on their toes.


Floor 6
Reservations at Blue Box Cafe can be made for breakfast, tea-time or to enjoy an all-day menu by chef Daniel Boulud that includes scrambled eggs with caviar, a Tiffany burger or an assortment of scones, tea sandwiches and petit fours. The café is open during operating store hours — from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. on Sunday. The sixth level is also dedicated to the full breadth of Tiffany homewares, where one can pick up a sterling silver compass or clothespin, a cashmere pillow or a mahjong set.


Floor 7

It’s the highest-selling floor of Landmark and it’s also home to Tiffany’s most expensive pieces. This space is dedicated to high jewelry sales — like designs from Tiffany’s Schlumberger and Blue Book collections — and is fully open to the public. “Dreamers are welcome,” said chief gemologist Victoria Reynolds about the space’s accessibility.


Floors 8 and 9
It’s the start of Tiffany’s “Diamond on the Roof,” or its three-story addition designed by OMA’s Shohei Shigematsu. The glass-paneled, glittering cube is headquarters for Landmark’s VIP event and clientele activities. Floors eight and nine are combined to make a two-story event and special exhibition space that will kick off with museum-level retrospectives sometime next year.


Floor 10
It’s Tiffany’s top clients who are treated to Landmark’s best views. The 10th floor has four VIP selling salons, along with a private dining room that can host up to 60 people.

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Updated June 27, 2023 2:07 p.m. EDT
Published June 30, 2023 11:29 a.m. EDT

The Canadian government has today tabled measures through the Budget Implementation Act that would prohibit testing cosmetics on animals in Canada. The amendments would also prohibit selling cosmetics that rely on new animal testing data to establish the product’s safety and false or misleading labelling pertaining to the testing of cosmetics on animals. Animal protection advocates Humane Society International/Canada, Animal Alliance Canada and Cruelty Free International, along with Cosmetics Alliance Canada, Lush Cosmetics and The Body Shop have been working closely with the Canadian government for several years to advance the legislation and issued the following statements: 

Michael Bernard, deputy director, Humane Society International/Canada, said: “A decade of campaigning by Humane Society International/Canada and our partners is giving the Canadian beauty sector a cruelty-free makeover. We have been honoured to work closely with the Canadian government and all stakeholders to advance these measures over the years, and we are delighted to see Canada introduce this historic legislation to ban cosmetics animal testing and trade. When this bill becomes law, Canadian consumers can be assured that the cosmetics they purchase have not come as a result of animal suffering—and that is something we can all feel good about.” 

Darren Praznik, president and CEO of Cosmetics Alliance Canada, said: “Industry and animal protection advocates have worked together over the last several years to advance a cosmetics animal testing ban in Canada. Since this issue was first raised in Parliament through a Private Member’s Bill in the Senate in 2015, our group has met frequently to build a collaborative relationship and to align on the principles with Health Canada while ensuring the ban works within the Canadian regulatory framework. We are very pleased to see the government bring forward this long overdue legislation.”

Liz White, director, Animal Alliance of Canada, said: “Animal Alliance supporters thank Minister Duclos and Health Canada staff for making the cosmetic animal testing ban a reality. Canada will join the growing number of countries worldwide that have ended such practices and the government will fulfill its promise to introduce legislation to end cosmetic testing on animals as soon as 2023.”

Monica Engebretson, head of public affairs North America, Cruelty Free International,said: “Cruelty Free International applauds this renewed effort to bring an end to animal testing for cosmetics across Canada. This is a unifying issue that has earned cross-party support in Canada and will match the progress we are seeing around the world as consumers, companies, regulators, and advocates come together to achieve a common goal of ensuring that animals won’t suffer for the sake of cosmetics anywhere.”

Brandi Halls, chief ethics officer, Lush Cosmetics North America, said: “As a company who has been campaigning to bring animal testing for cosmetics to an end since our inception over 25 years ago, today we join animal rights campaigners and animal lovers to celebrate this important moment for the global movement. By heeding the call of people across Canada, Minister Duclos and Health Canada are putting Canada on the right side of history ending this ineffective, inhumane and outdated practice. We’re proud to have partnered with HSI for over a decade and through customer responses to our in-shop campaigning, we know that the voice of the majority has been heard.”

Hilary Lloyd, VP of marketing and corporate responsibility, The Body Shop North America, said: “The Body Shop applauds Minister Duclos and Health Canada for their work in bringing forth this legislation. As a leader in cruelty-free beauty, we’re celebrating this milestone and reflecting on the passionate hard work from our retail teams and activist customers that delivered over 625,000 signatures to Parliament Hill in 2018 asking to end cosmetic animal testing. An important reminder that businesses have a responsibility in being a force for good. We encourage other governments around the world to follow suit.”

Canada bans testing of cosmetics on animals, in line with dozens of other countries
Canada has banned testing cosmetic products on animals, a largely symbolic move that brings the policy in line with dozens of other countries.

The amendments to the Food and Drug Act were included in this year's budget, and will come into effect in December, Health Minister Jean-Yves Duclos said at a press conference in Toronto on Tuesday celebrating the change.

"Today, Canada joins 43 other countries who have taken measures to ban cosmetic animal testing. Indeed our government has now passed legislation banning the testing of cosmetic products on animals." In addition to barring companies from testing their cosmetic products on animals in Canada, the regulations prevent new products that rely on animal testing data to establish product safety from being sold in this country.

"Rarely do we see policy changes where everyone is on board, where activists, industry, politicians and Canadians all agree. Today is one of those rare days and it is worth celebrating," Duclos said, referencing a poll that found 90 per cent of Canadians were in favour of the measure.
Animal testing has fallen out of vogue in the cosmetics industry in recent years, as a result of similar legislation in the European Union that was introduced two decades ago.

The regulations shouldn't result in any additional costs to the brands that sell the affected products, such as creams, lotions and makeup, said Darren Praznik, president and CEO of Cosmetics Alliance Canada.

Most recently, Dior Beauty stepped into the spotlight with its late-March announcement at the 21st Aesthetic and Anti-Aging Medicine World Congress in Monaco that it had established an International Reverse Aging Scientific Advisory Board. Comprising the board are 600 researchers and 18 experts, including Dr. Nicola Neretti, a biologist at the Institute for Brain & Neural Systems at Brown University, and Dr. David Furman, the director of the 1000 Immunomes Project at Stanford University. Dior’s own research will add to the knowledge base on aging science around stem cells, inflammation and cell communication. The idea is to better understand the 12 signs of aging, including genomic instability, epigenetic changes, stem cell fatigue and chronic inflammation. It will then weave that knowledge into skin-care product innovations to reverse these signs, according to Bruno Bavouzet, evp of R&D at LMVH, who oversees all beauty brands including Dior, Givenchy, Fresh and Benefit Cosmetics. “Our No. 1 goal is understanding the different path [around aging], from a biological standpoint. With time, we will make discoveries on the real mechanisms that accelerate aging,” he said. “No. 2 is to identify the potential actions that we can have through cosmetic [products] and how can we can [reverse] the biological age.” Bavouzet spoke with Glossy further about the concept of reverse aging, including why Dior is exploring the topic, what can be gained with the new advisory board and what a “collective intelligence approach” means. This interview has been lightly edited and condensed for clarity. 

What does ‘reverse aging’ mean?
“When we talk about reverse aging, basically what we know is that chronological age is different from biological age. That means that if you are 40- or 50-years-old, that definitely is your chronological age, but your biological age and the age of your cells can be different. We know in medicine that you can reverse your biological age by adding good health practices. What we don’t always understand is the mechanisms of these aging processes and how they are connected to each other. The first stage [of our research] is to better understand the underlying mechanisms, with all their biological complexity, and why we are aging differently. Reverse aging starts with the 12 hallmarks of aging. Historically, anti-aging people used to work on one approach, perhaps it was stem cells or polymers, et cetera. But we believe the best approach [to reverse aging or anti-aging] is a holistic approach. But that can be complex. Because there has been progress in biological discoveries and big data, we are able to [process] complex information.”

What is the board’s purpose and what does it do?
“We believe [the field of] reverse aging is impacted by very different biological mechanisms. And we believe that we need to have all the people in different fields work together, exchange information and build bridges between topics. We are working on reverse aging internally, obviously, but we want to accelerate that [research], meaning that we need more insights, from a scientific standpoint, on discoveries, [as well as] more data, and more experience. The board is advising us on our research. It will regroup several times a year. But throughout the year, we might also have continuous exchanges on specific topics with around four people. It’s about building what I would call a ‘collective intelligence approach,’ meaning that we are grouping all these people who are experts on the human body, while we [Dior] work on the skin. Not all of them are skin experts, but they can help us translate some research on different [scientific] topics to the skin, as well.”

Why is Dior Beauty the right LVMH brand for this research?
“Dior has always been science-focused. Dior was the first brand back in the 1980s to launch liposomes in the skin-care industry. That’s really something that was important at the time with big effects. It’s true that when you think about Dior, you obviously think about fashion and makeup. But Dior has always been thinking about and integrating the idea of how to make women happier.  At an early stage [in the brand’s history] it started to launch skin-care products that were acting on the transformation of the skin. What matters for Dior is to invent and be a pioneer in beauty, as it has in the fashion industry.”
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What has spurred this reverse aging focus?
“There is a continuity from what has historically been the focus of anti-aging. The topic is also led by medicine. There has been a lot of progress in medicine and many therapies, like stem cells which are considered the ‘mother cell,’ … and trying to apply the same science to cosmetics. Obviously, we cannot do exactly the same thing. But when we started to work about 10-15 years ago on the microbiome of the skin, we got inspiration from work that was focused on [gastrointestinal science]. It is a pretty similar approach we are conducting here with reverse aging.”

The House of Chanel has debuted a new fragrance inspired by France's capital city. Chanel Eau de Chanel Paris-Paris was created by Perfumer Olivier Polge and is said to be an code to a Parisian woman.

The juice is composed of notes of Damascena rose, fresh citrus and pink peppercorn extract at the top, warming to patchouli and is described as a 'sparkling woody-floral composition'. The bottle and the juice's rosy hue is said to be reminiscent of the city's iconic Hausmann buildings.

The scent pays homage to the places Gabrielle Chanel frequented during her lifetime (Paris-Deauville, Paris-Biarritz, Paris-Venice, Paris-Riviera, Paris-Edinburgh), With the fragrance category booming, it's no wonder the brand is extending its rage.

French Haute Parfumerie Henry Jacques has recently introduced several new scents to its iconic Les Brumes line: Ambrose, Dorilene and Vert Galant are perfectly evocative of the shift in season, each bringing a touch of serenity whilst reawakening ones senses.

AMBROSE
A beautiful, clean Rose scent surrounded by the cool and refreshing notes of Mint and Anise, followed by Amber and Sandalwood. Ambrose is subtle, warm and spicy - yet woody, which creates an aura of enchanting, timeless elegance.
Family: Floral / Woody
Instantly: Mint – Rose
Then: White Anise
Later: Amber – Sandalwood

DORILENE
A floral fresh scent with a charming opening led by the encounter of Lily of the Valley and the alluring sweetness of Ylang Ylang. The graceful presence of Roses, Freesia and an aroma of Jasmine are later balanced by the earthy and subtly green scent of Iris.
Family: Floral / Fresh
Instantly: Lily of the Valley – Ylang-Ylang
 Then: White Lily – Fresh Rose – Freesia
Later: Jasmine – Iris – Magnolia

VERT GALANT
When aromatic and fresh Lavender notes meet the mysterious warmth of Sandalwood, you are immersed in the tranquility of French lavender fields. What follows is the lingering sweet aroma of Cistus Labdanum, complemented with Amber, Musk and an all-enveloping Vanilla.
Family: Fougere / Lavender
Instantly: Lavender
Then: Cistus-Labdanum – Sandalwood
Later: Amber – Vanilla – Musk

As well as being newly offered in the splash and spray 75ml Les Brumes version, the scents are also available in more traditional Les Essences in 15ml and 30ml crystal flacons. Ambrose, Dorilene and Vert Galant are available at Henry Jacques boutique at Beverly Hills, California at 204 N Rodeo Dr. and on the brand's website 

Ask any beauty lover, and they’ll tell you they wait all year for the Sephora Beauty Insider Sale to drop. The perennially loved savings event has blessed Beauty Insiders with hundreds (nay, thousands) of markdowns on skin care, hair care, and makeup products, from April 14 to April 24. We're talking bronzing drops for faking a sun-kissed tan, chrome makeup must-haves, gift sets that’d be great for Mother's Day,  and so much more. Chances are if you’re reading this post, you’re already a Sephora member. If not, the moment to sign up is right this second, especially since it’s totally free to join. First-time shoppers, listen carefully before diving right in. There are different levels of access to the products on sale at Sephora. It works like this: 

• Rouge members (anyone who’s spent $1,000 or more in a calendar year) have first dibs, with 20% off their entire purchase from April 14 to April 24. 
• VIB members (shoppers who spent at least $350 last year) get to shop the sale, beginning April 18 with 15% off all orders.  
• Insiders (anyone who simply signs up for the loyalty program) can shop from April 18 to April 24, with 10% off all orders. 

In addition to its bevy of brand discounts, the retailer is also offering members 30% off Sephora Collection products. To cash in on the deals, everyone—no matter the tier—has to enter the code SAVENOW at checkout. (Heads up: The promos can’t be combined, though they do run at the same time.) With the Sephora Beauty Insider Sale 2023 just opening, now’s your last chance to build your ideal shopping cart. Of course, with so many incredible brands on the menu, you want to make sure you’re getting the best deals while supplies last. 

  ​The Met Gala 2023 theme, titled Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty, will honor the artistic brilliance of the late designer and trace his evolution. As one of the biggest events on the fashion calendar, the Met Gala marks the opening of the Costume Institute’s style exhibition and has long been celebrated for its zeitgeist-defining outfits and sumptuous red-carpet glamour. The Met Gala 2023 theme – Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty – will trace the designer’s evolution from winning the Woolmark Prize in 1954, to being hired as an assistant to Pierre Balmain, and revisits his prolific career at Chanel, Fendi, Chloé, Balmain, Patou and his own eponymous brand, until his death in 2019. Attendees on the night will therefore be basing their red-carpet looks around the dress code ‘In Honor of Karl’. Drawing from Lagerfeld’s seminal oeuvre, there are plenty of legendary pieces to pull from his numerous archives. Who will come as one of Chanel’s beloved couture brides? And who will take their cues more literally, with nods to the designer’s own iconic personal style – from his dark glasses and fingerless gloves to his neatly tailored suits and sleek ponytail? The 2023 exhibition, meanwhile, will feature 150 original looks from the full extent of Lagerfeld’s portfolio. With a keen focus on his impressionistic and precise sketches, Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty will frame the designer’s two-dimensional drawings alongside their three-dimensional counterparts to show how they manifested into living works of art. According to Andrew Bolton, the Costume Institute’s Wendy Yu Curator in Charge, Lagerfeld did not believe fashion belonged in a museum, but “on the street, on women’s bodies, on men’s bodies”. To stay true to Lagerfeld’s unique vision and personal proclivities, Bolton is foregoing the traditional format of a retrospective and prioritizing the designer’s original sketches as the centerpiece of the spring 2023 exhibition. Presented at The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Tisch Gallery from May 5 until July 16, 2023, the interior of Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty will be designed by architect Tadao Ando. The exhibit will also include video interviews with the designer’s former colleagues, shot by Loïc Progent, with creative consultancy by Amanda Harlech, a close colleague of Lagerfeld. The event’s co-chairs include Michaela Coel, Penelope Cruz (who made her runway debut at Chanel’s FW19 show), Roger Federer, Dua Lipa and Anna Wintour. While this year’s red-carpet hosts are yet to be announced, the 2022 red carpet was hosted by fashion journalist Hamish Bowles, actor and singer Vanessa Hudgens, and actor and presenter La La Anthony.

After a rather laboured start, success came in 1991 for Nuxe thanks to a single product: the Huile Prodigieuse multi-purpose oil. This dry oil for the face, hair and body, packaged in a glass bottle, has sold 35 million units since its launch. One bottle is said to sell worldwide every nine seconds, making Huile Prodigieuse Nuxe’s bestseller. A success that was to be replicated later by the Rêve de Miel (honey dream) range, especially its lip balm. Nuxe has developed a string of novelties that are helping boost its performance alongside its core products. The Super Sérum Anti-Age, launched two years ago, is now its second most-sold product (€74.50 for 30 ml). All of Nuxe’s products are manufactured in France. The brand has its own facility in Fougères, Brittany, which produces half of its total units and is also home to the R&D lab. Recently, Nuxe has also launched into a new segment, haircare, with the Hair Prodigieux line. It is a haircare ritual in three stages suitable for all types of hair, based on a key ingredient, fermented camellia oil, in a patented formula. In 2019, Belgian private equity firm Sofina bought a 45.13% stake in Nuxe, with the aim of stepping up the pace of the brand's international expansion. In 2021, exports exceeded the French domestic market’s revenue for the first time, accounting for a 53% share. Italy is Nuxe’s largest market outside France, followed by Spain and Greece. The brand said it is also performing well in the Middle East and Asia. In 2020, a chaotic year for global trade, Nuxe opened a subsidiary in China. In 2002, Nuxe opened its first spa on rue Montorgueil in Paris. The brand now operates 63 spas, located in hotels, department stores such as Galeries Lafayette,  Haussmann, and in La Maison Nuxe. The next one will open in Italy in Pompei. In 2022, a spa division was set up within the Nuxe group, in order to bolster the growth of the spa business, which accounts for 10% of total revenue.

How does one distil the essence of an artwork into a perfume? Delphine Jelk, Director of Perfume Creation at Guerlain, may have achieved it with the luxury perfumer’s latest creation. Launched as part of its L’Art & La Matière collection, the new fragrance celebrates jasmine, one of the six ingredients that make up the Maison’s secret olfactory signature known as the Guerlinade, a unique blend of notes (or accord in perfume parlance) which undergirds Guerlain fragrances. The new perfume, Jasmin Bonheur, features two varieties of the delicate white blossom: jasmine Grandiflorum and jasmine Sambac. Inspired by the jasmine that originates from Calabria, Italy, Jelk had visions of warm Mediterranean light and happiness that she wanted to express when she was creating the new fruity-chypre fragrance. “I also have my own memories of jasmine in the south of France because I studied in Grasse. And of course, the light and colours of Henri Matisse who found happiness in the south of France,” says Jelk. For collectors, the juice is housed within a limited edition bottle created in collaboration with Maison Matisse, a design house whose objets d’art are inspired by the works of the French artist. Jasmin Bonheur continues Guerlain’s tradition of crafting raw materials into works of art. The motif on the embossed plate on the bottle stopper features elements from the artist’s Les Mille et Une Nuits—the vibrant jasmine, hearts and leaves that dance across Matisse’s canvas perfectly capture the exuberant essence of the perfume. The process of creating the perfume was a very personal journey for Jelk, who described the process as “an exercise of style” as she tried to materialise a very specific jasmine scent she had in her mind. Her idea of a jasmine perfume existed long before the creation of Jasmin Bonheur. With jasmine being a notoriously difficult flower to work with, she had yet to create a jasmine-centric perfume she was completely satisfied with. She says, “I have to say that I’ve never smelt a perfume with jasmine where I found what I like in the flower. And I think it’s because it’s hard to work with, as jasmine absolute is different from the flower. You can smell the jasmine, but it’s much more intense and normally, you don’t have the freshness and brightness of the flower. To find the magic of the flower [that you find] in nature inside a lab is very difficult.” When thinking about scents that conjure that sense of joy that Matisse’s paintings evoke, Jelk immediately thought of “a little pot of apricot oil that I have had from my mother and grandmother since I was a child. This is the smell of happiness because it’s the smell of caring. This scent makes me feel like a child again.” With Jasmin Bonheur, she wanted to balance the sensual, heady scent of jasmine by igniting it with notes of apricot as well as iris and rose. The delicate alchemy of her chosen ingredients culminates in a bright and invigorating floral fragrance, redolent of sun-drenched fields and clear summer skies. So what else makes Jelk happy? In a word, life itself. “I’m really a life lover, what makes life good is beauty. In French, we say ‘le bon et le beau’—what is good and what is beautiful. I’m really into food and art, and my family is also a great influence. I have four children and I love their spontaneous joy which is very contagious. Nature also—when I visit the plantations and watch them harvest jasmine at five in the morning, I am amazed that life can give us so many beautiful things.”Jelk created Jasmin Bonheur not only to celebrate joy, but to bring joy to the wearer. An olfactory composition as lively and delightful as Matisse’s paintings, Jasmin Bonheur is the perfect scent to welcome the warmer months.

Earlier this month,  inside New York's hottest spot Casa Cruz, luxury skincare brand Clarins held an exclusive dinner with some of New York's elite to celebrate its new skincare line, Clarins Precious. The new line is designed to be a vision of luxury, bringing responsible beauty to the forefront with its plant-inspired formula and science-driven performance. Precious consists of La Lotion, La Crème Yeux Eye Cream, La Crème Moisturizer, and L'Outil Facial Massage Tool. The key ingredient to this innovative skincare line? The Moonlight Flower. Grown on the coast of Brittany, France, the Moonlight Flower blooms one night a year and is carefully harvested once it reaches its peak molecular richness, in which Clarins then harnesses an anti-aging cryoextract—the special ingredient that is exclusive to the brand. The anti-aging peptides actively boost the skin's resistance to aging whilst simultaneously adding a radiance to the skin for a youthful glow.  The celebration was not short in attendance of some of New York's elite including, fashion It girl Ivy Getty, actress Rachel Brosnaha, supermodels Duckie Thot and Maria Borges, Julian Polak, Serena Kerrigan, and Gracie McGraw.
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Clarins Precious is now available to shop exclusively at Clarins online or at Nordstrom.

​Parabens are a type of preservative that has been highly debated in recent years. First introduced in the 1920s, they are antimicrobial, cheap, and most people aren’t allergic to them. So it’s easy to understand why they are widely used. Methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and ethylparaben are the most commonly found parabens in skincare and cosmetic products. While the FDA and CDC have declared parabens safe at any concentration, the European Union’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety considers Parabens safe but only at low levels. They recommend that the combined concentration of propylparaben and butylparaben in a product should not exceed .19 percent, because of the potential endocrine-disrupting effects of these parabens. They also note that more research needs to be done, as much of the research looks at the effects on rodents, not humans.
If parabens are a concern, they’re pretty easy to avoid. Choose products that have a "Clean at Sephora" label or are sold at Credo Beauty,  which has high ingredient standards for the products they sell. If you are allergic to a specific type of preservative, it should definitely be avoided. But, it's nearly impossible to find any type of commercial skincare or makeup product that doesn't contain some type of preservative. Products that are lower in preservatives or labeled “clean” are generally more subject to bacteria growth than those that aren’t. So, you should take extra precautions when using them. For example, wash your hands and dry them with a clean towel before applying any type of product—especially those for the face and eyes. Opting for products where each usage or “dose” is individually packaged is also a great way to curb contamination. Noble Panacea is a line worth considering because each use is packaged in an individual sachet. Alternatively, choosing products that are dispensed with a pump or dropper is another way to keep bacteria at bay, since you won't introduce water or bacteria from your hands into the product. It’s also important to check the shelf life of the cosmetic noted on the label. Using expired products isn't worth the risk and they should be disposed of. "if you want to use water-based cosmetics, such as creams, serums, lotions, butters, foundations, body wash, or similar products- you should accept these products must contain preservatives to keep them safe from contamination.

Experts would agree that it's a skincare sin to step outside without slathering your face, neck, chest and anywhere exposed to direct sunlight without sunscreen. Unprotected skin is at a greater risk of photo damage, premature aging, and skin cancer. Yet one area frequently glossed over is the lips, which deserved equal protection and attention, especially since they are out in the open and exposed to damaging elements all the time.That's why SPF lip products come into play. Today's SPF lip products go beyond the basic lip balm in a stick. You can find everything from sunscreen-packed tinted lip oils to high-shine glosses and moisturizing lipsticks that cater to all your needs. Let's break down the benefits of SPF lip products and some of our favourite formulas. Applying a lip product that contains SPF is helpful to the health of the lips overall. Board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick calls lip products formulated with SPF "multitaskers that protect against UV damage while nourishing the lips so that they look healthier and more hydrated." Without proper sun protection, the lips can easily succumb to sun damage, hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer in worse cases. Since the lips are thin and lack melanin (a pigment that acts as a natural sun defense), they have less natural protection from the sun. Failing to wear a lip product with sunscreen daily allows UV rays to infiltrate the lips, leading to dryness, chapped lips, and sunburns. The more sun exposure the lips incur, the higher the risk of sun damage and dark spots that can cause fine lines and wrinkles on and around the lips. Unprotected lips are also at risk for developing actinic cheilitis, or sailor's lip, where the skin is constantly chapped, scaly, and dry.  According to cosmetic chemist, AJ Addae of Sula Labs, SPF lip products provide sun protection and potential antioxidant benefits. "Therefore, they're a great option if your concern is UV-induced photoaging or addressing fine lines and wrinkles of the lips," she explains. In addition to their sun-protecting abilities, most SPF lip products contain humectants that hydrate the lips, like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin, or emollients such as coconut oil, shea butter, and petrolatum for a softening effect. Addae says that all SPF products, whether for the lips, face, or body, use the same UV filters to achieve UV protection, such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. It's pretty easy to find clear sunscreen products specific to the lips that don't leave behind a white cast. "Still, it is common for SPF lip products to have lower-than-normal sun protection factors," she says. Or you can slather on some of your regular sunscreens too, just make sure it's all natural.

Some Of The Best SPF Lip Products 
Cle de Peau Protective Lip Treatment SPF 25
Elizabeth Arden Eight hour Cream Lip Protectant Stick SPF 15
Aesop Protective Lip Balm SPF 30
Kiehl's Butter Stick Lip Treatment SPF 30

 A growing number of state legislatures are considering bans on cosmetics and other consumer products that contain a group of synthetic, potentially harmful chemicals known as PFAS. In Vermont, the state Senate gave final approval this week to legislation that would prohibit manufacturers and suppliers from selling or distributing any cosmetics or menstrual products in the state that have perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances, as well as a number of other chemicals. The products include shampoo, makeup, deodorant, sunscreen, hair dyes and more, said state Sen. Terry Williams, a Republican, and member of the Senate Committee on Health and Welfare. "Many known toxic chemicals are used in or found as contaminants in personal care products, including PFAS, lead and formaldehyde,” Williams said in reporting the bill to Senate colleagues. California, Colorado and Maryland passed similar restrictions on cosmetics that go into effect in 2025. Other proposals are under consideration in Washington and Oregon while bills have also been introduced in Illinois, Rhode Island and Georgia.  According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, studies have linked PFAS exposure to increased cancer risk, developmental delays in children, damage to organs such as the liver and thyroid, increased cholesterol levels and reduced immune functions, especially among young children. Like in Colorado and California, the proposed Vermont crackdown on PFAS — known as “forever chemicals” for their persistence in the environment — goes beyond cosmetics. The bill, which now must be considered by the Vermont House, would extend the ban to apparel, including outdoor apparel for severe wet conditions, athletic turf, clothing, ski wax and textiles, including upholstery, draperies, towels and bedding that intentionally contain PFAS. The bill has been referred to a House committee and the chairwoman said Friday that she’s not sure if the panel will get to it this session. The legislation gives various timelines for the phaseouts. “We must stop importing dangerous chemicals like PFAS into our state so we can prevent the harms they are causing up and down the supply chain -- from their production and use to their disposal,” Lauren Hierl, executive director of Vermont Conservation Voters, said in a statement. A study by University of Notre Dame researchers released in 2021 found that more than half the cosmetics sold in the United States and Canada were awash with a toxic industrial compound associated with serious health conditions. Researchers tested more than 230 commonly used cosmetics and found that 56% of foundations and eye products, 48% of lip products and 47% of mascaras contained fluorine — an indicator of PFAS. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration says on its website that there have been few studies of the presence of PFAS in cosmetics, and the ones published found the concentration is at very low levels. The Personal Care Products Council, which represents the cosmetics industry, says in 2020 it supported California legislation to phase out certain ingredients, including 13 PFAS in cosmetics, and identical legislative language in Maryland the following year. The group called for states to pass uniform laws to avoid confusion. As for bans on apparel containing the chemicals, the American Apparel & Footwear Association supports the bill passed unanimously in the Vermont Senate and appreciates that amendments were made to align with phase-out timelines in existing PFAS restrictions in California and New York, said Chelsea Murtha, AAFA’s director of sustainability, in a statement. The Outdoor Industry Association, based on Colorado, said overall it supports the Vermont bill, also noted the current version more closely matches the timeline for compliance with California’s.