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If you're a fan of eyeshadow, you'll more than likely have run into the problem of eyeshadow creasing before. Unfortunately, it happens to the best of us, and it's to be expected when you put a product on your eyes where everyone naturally has folds (seriously, without them the eyelid wouldn't actually open and close properly). The main culprit of eyeshadow creasing though isn't actually the folds on your eyelids. It's caused by the eyelids' natural oil production. That oil (which is created to keep the skin properly moisturized) then starts to soak through the eyeshadow, breaking it down, and those lines we see on our lids are the result of the oil and product mixing and getting caught in the eyelid folds.
But while it may be an expected side effect of eyeshadow on the lid, that doesn't mean there aren't ways to limit how much creasing goes on. In fact, there are a number of hacks you can try to keep those pesky eyeshadow lines from ruining your look. Make sure you start with clean lids One of the first steps to take when it comes to making sure there's no eyeshadow creasing is to start with totally clean lids. As we already know, eyeshadow creasing is caused by excess oil around the eyes, so making sure your lids are clean and dry to start with will help to eliminate a lot of the oil causing the problem. You can even clean your lids with an oil-free eye makeup remover before getting started. But they're not the only methods you can try to get rid of that extra oil that could potentially ruin your makeup look. "I prefer to then spray some toner all over the face for a clean canvas to remove any excess oil," celebrity makeup artist Anu Kaushik suggested to Vogue India. "For those with an extremely oily skin type, I'd go a step further by using blotting paper around the area." Don't forget the primer! One of the absolute most important steps for preventing eyeshadow creasing is using eyeshadow primer. Just like a primer you'd apply to your face, an eyeshadow primer does a similar job of preparing your lid for makeup. "Primers create a smooth, clean canvas that adheres eyeshadow to the skin for the highest vibrancy and payoff," Anastasia Beverly Hills Pro Artist, Talia Cich, told Byrdie. "This helps to create a barrier between the skin and the eyeshadow," makeup artist Roseanna Velin added to Beauty Daily by Clarins. "There is constant skin-to-skin contact on the eyelid, and it can become quite oily throughout the day which makes the eyeshadow separate and crease." There are multiple eyeshadow primers on the market, so it may take a little trial and error to find the right one for you. However, a primer with a little grip is best for keeping crease lines at bay. "It essentially grips the eyeshadow to skin and locks it in place for all-day wear," Cich explained. Waterproof concealer or a foundation can be used as a primer if you don't have one to hand, though, celebrity makeup artist Renée Loiz confessed that primer is most likely to give you the best results as it's specifically designed for this specific issue. After all, concealer itself can easily crease if it's applied too heavily. And remember to opt for powder Powder products will be your best friend if you have oily lids that tend to crease. That's because powder makeup can help to keep a lid (pun intended) on all that excess oil that caused creasing. You have a couple of options here, which you can either use alone or combine for the best results. The first option is opting for only powder eyeshadows. "Powders are less likely to crease, as well as cream-to-powder formulas, but with just a straight-up cream eyeshadow product, you will definitely have creasing," Renée Loiz explained to Bougeoir. You can also try a translucent setting powder on the lid to really mattify the shadow and keep it in place. "The powder will set the cream or liquid products and lock them in place with a smooth, matte finish," Talia Cich explained, but they noted you're best to use this method after applying either a concealer or foundation to the eye before the shadow, as they're designed to work together. You'll then want to finish up with a setting spray that's safe for the eye, as this will also help keep everything in place. Try layering your products Another pro-tip for keeping eyeshadow creasing at bay is to layer up your products. After all, it's only logical that the more powder or mattifying products that are on your lid, the more they'll help with excess oil production. Cassie Lomas, makeup artist and B.Makeup ambassador, explained her process to Glamour, sharing, "Apply light layers of a primer, a foundation, and then a few layers of eyeshadow to stop any movement." Equally, taking your time and applying your products slowly will allow each one to really settle into the skin — and it'll make your finished product that much more flawless, too! Renée Loiz is also a fan of layering products for the best results, though she focuses more on stacking up eye-specific items. Plus, if you try Loiz's method, you can give eyeshadows that aren't powders a fair go. "Layering is great. I recommend using an eyeshadow crayon with liquid eyeshadow to prevent creasing. Eyeshadow crayons are creamy and glide on beautifully, and they set on the eyelid flawlessly, as do liquid eyeshadows," she told Bougeoir. And make sure you're applying your eye products properly There may be more in the application of your eye products than you might think. It turns out that the way in which you apply products to your eye can actually play a big part in creating (or not). When it comes to your primer, Renée Loiz explained to Byrdiethat the best way to stop those creases is, "Apply a thin layer across eyelids and blend in. Make sure the entire area [where] you're applying eyeshadow is covered with the eye primer," she shared. Then, when it comes to your eyeshadow, you'll want to practice an application method that may be a little different from what you're used to. "I use a firm brush to apply eyeshadow and really press it onto the lid, and then blend it," Roseanna Velin told Vogue India. "This way, the eyeshadow is quite well compressed onto the eyeshadow base. This really helps it to stay put." If you're trying cream products though, Anu Kaushik recommended ditching the makeup brushes entirely. "Use your fingertips. Gentle padding motions will give you control and avoid creasing."
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Tom Ford Myrrhe Mystère Eau de Parfum In the fragrant resin family, myrrh is almost always overshadowed by its famous older brother, frankincense. Often, myrrh goes as if in addition to incense, it is rarely discussed independently, especially in detail. I think that this is completely unfair: from the point of view of both botany and chemistry (the substances that determine the smell and the olfactory profile itself) frankincense and myrrh are quite different. Today one can finally focus entirely and only on this extraordinary plant, the resin that is obtained from this plant, the perfume materials obtained from this resin and the fragrances that contain these materials. Both frankincense trees of the genus Boswellia (lat. Boswellia) and myrrh (officially - Commiphora myrrh, lat. Commiphora myrrha) belong to the family Burseraceae (lat. Burseraceae). To use the analogy of a large human family, frankincense and myrrh are like cousins. From the Greek, the official name translates approximately as "bringing resin." Resin (gum-resin, to be more precise) is formed in special cells of the tree bark. Once upon a time, people saw resin oozing from the tree injured by animals chewing on the bark. Then they began to make incisions on the bark of trees and collect harden pieces of its resin. Trees after such a procedure require from 6 months to 2 years to recover, otherwise, especially if there is little rainfall, the tree might wither and die. The word myrrh comes from ancient Greek (μυρρα, σμυρνα), randomly from Arabic (مر meaning "bitter"). Therefore, sometimes it is also called bitter myrrh, which is to some extent a tautology. In biblical times, good incense could cost more than gold - so the gifts of the Magi were not at all symbolic. At the same time, myrrh, as a rule, was three times more expensive than incense, although incense has always been much more in demand. Now frankincense resin is produced annually at several hundred tons, myrrh - 4-5 times less: 50 years ago this value was about 70 tons per year. Myrrh essential oil is obtained by steam distillation. The extraction of essential oil from resins requires some knowledge and skill, so distillation is usually carried out not on the spot, but the resin is taken to a specially equipped production facility. Myrrh oil is an oily, but not very viscous, pale yellow to pale orange or amber liquid. The smell is warm-spicy, often with a very distinctive, sharply balsamic, slightly medicinal top note, without any terpene notes. The sweetness builds up to a deep, warm-spicy and fragrant dry scent that is completely unique and hard to replicate. Metallic and very characteristic gardenia-mushroom nuances are often noted in the smell of myrrh. The essential oil cannot boast of any particular persistence. The taste of myrrh oil is warm, somewhat sharp, but very rich and pleasant. Over time, myrrh essential oil thickens, but the smell, as many believe, only gets better. Myrrh essential oil, as expected, performs well in oriental fragrances, woody-balsamic fragrances and heavy narcotic floral bouquets. But it is also indispensable in realistic woody, "forest" accords, where it works great together with mossy and coniferous notes, petitgrain, juniper berry oil, etc. To a limited extent, myrrh oil is also used in the food industry for flavorings. Even more popular are the products of myrrh extraction: resinoid and absolute. In the first case, this is a direct extraction of aromatic substances with alcohol (the tincture is then cooled to get rid of heavy ballast substances) or a classic two-stage extraction in the second case. After extraction, the alcohol is removed by distillation under vacuum. At the end of this procedure, a small amount of a low-volatility, odorless, high-boiling solvent is often added, this has two main goals: firstly, the extract does not "burn", and secondly, it remains liquid and is much easier to work with. Pure absolute is a dark brown soft viscous mass. The smell of the absolute is deep, vanilla-ambery and often phenolic-smoky (somewhat similar to guaiac), balsamic, with the above-mentioned earthy-mushroom (and often lactone-coconut) and licorice-gourmand tones, which are often described as reminiscent of creamy toffee. Myrrh extraction products, due to the content of rather heavy substances, are much more stable and long-lasting than essential oil. Aromas where myrrh would play a major role or be included in the name may not be so many, but they certainly exist. The profile of myrrh is still quite specific, as they say - for an amateur, but there are definitely such amateurs.
Even if we forget for a moment that the white "candies" of this collection are designed to be layered and combined with other fragrances, Myrrh is quite viable as a standalone fragrance. Jacques Cavalier managed to notice and fix all the important features of the myrrh profile, without overloading or weighing down the composition. Allegra Myrrh stands a little apart from all the amplifying enhancers and varied splendor of the collection: it will take the fragrance into a slightly pensive, detached mood. It is the most philosophical and mystical fragrance of the collection, so if you urgently need to turn a perfume wardrobe of carefree fun into an insidious weapon of femme fatale mystery, then you know what to do. Yves Saint Laurent Black OpiumWHAT DOES VANILLA MEAN? The word "vanilla" comes from the Spanish word "vainilla", which literally means "little pod". The name vanilla is used to refer to both the orchid plant and the aromatic pods it produces. The use of the word "vanilla" dates back to the 16th century, when the Spanish conquistadors discovered the plant in Mexico and appreciated its characteristic flavour and aroma. They called it "vainilla" because of the elongated shape of the pods. IN THE BEGINNING... The history of vanilla goes back to the origins of the Mayan civilization, where it was used to perfume sacred drinks. Vanilla is native to the tropical regions of Central and South America, and was cultivated exclusively by indigenous peoples. During the colonization of the Americas, the Spanish conquistadors discovered vanilla and brought it to Europe. However, cultivating vanilla outside its natural habitat proved difficult, until a hand-pollination process was discovered in the late 18th century on Reunion Island, revolutionizing the vanilla industry. Today, vanilla is grown in several tropical countries and continues to be one of the most prized spices in the world. DID YOU KNOW? In 1841, on the island of Bourbon (now Reunion Island), Edmond Albius, a young slave, made a revolutionary discovery. He perfected a technique for the manual fertilization of the vanilla orchid by distinguishing the male and female organs of the flower, then pollinating them with a wooden thorn. A few days later, the flower transformed into a precious vanilla pod. VANILLA CULTIVATION The main vanilla-producing regions are Madagascar, the world's largest producer, followed by Reunion, Comoros, Tahiti, and other tropical countries such as Mexico, French Polynesia, Indonesia and India. These regions provide the ideal climatic conditions for growing vanilla. The vanilla plant is a climbing orchid grown to produce vanilla beans. Vanilla cultivation requires a tropical climate with an average temperature of around 25°C. Vanilla generally flowers after two to three years of planting. The delicate flowers have to be pollinated by hand, as bees and other pollinators cannot reach them easily. Growers gently pollinate by opening the flower and transferring pollen from a male to a female part of the flower. After pollination, the flowers turn into green vanilla pods that gradually ripen. At this point, vanilla is harvested when the pods have reached maturity. They must be carefully harvested by hand to avoid damaging the plants. The pods then undergo a ripening process, which involves slow, controlled drying, often in the sun for several weeks, followed by a conditioning process. This process allows the pods to develop their characteristic aroma and intense flavor of sweetness. THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF VANILLA • Vanilla planifolia, also known as Bourbon vanilla, is a type of orchid native to Mexico. It is distinguished by its delicate flowers and mesmerizing fragrance. Harvesting the Madagascar vanilla beans requires meticulous attention and a specific transformation process to release the rich, smooth aromas for which Bourbon vanilla is famous. • Vanilla x Tahitensis is a specific variety of vanilla native to Tahiti and the surrounding islands of French Polynesia. It is known for its unique, exotic aroma, which differs from that of classic Bourbon vanilla. Vanilla x Tahitensis beans are plumper and wider than those of other vanilla varieties, and range in color from light green to dark brown. It is appreciated for its floral and fruity fragrance, with notes of vanillin, tropical flowers and caramel. It is found mainly in desserts, baked goods and confectionery. • Vanilla pompona, native to Central and South America, is distinguished by its long stems and glossy green leaves. The flowers are eye-catching, with white pompon-shaped blossoms and a delicate fragrance. This plant is invaluable for the vanilla bean, which contains a high-quality vanilla oil used in cooking and perfumery. Vanilla pompona is a botanical treasure that finds its place in a variety of creative industries. WHAT DO YOU KNOW ABOUT VANILLA IN PERFUMERY? Once harvested, the vanilla processing and transformation process begins. Vanilla beans undergo a series of steps. First, they are scalded to stop them ripening and activate the enzymes that develop the characteristic aroma. Next, they are dried slowly in the sun or in special driers until they become dark brown and soft. After drying, the pods are sorted and packed. Some are sold whole, while others are ground or processed into vanilla extract or the vanilla absolute essential oil. The process of transforming vanilla requires patience and expertise to preserve its delicate fragrance and exquisite flavor. In terms of olfactory harmony, vanilla has a sweet, warm and delicately floral fragrance. Its smell is often described as sweet, creamy and slightly woody. Vanilla evokes notes of caramel, chocolate and cream, and a comforting sensation that makes it in demand for desserts and scented products.
Vanilla fragrances are suitable to be worn by both men and women. Although vanilla is rarely used on its own in perfumery and the world of beauty, it may nevertheless be used in a variety of ways and layering is one of them. • Woody-vanilla: for both men and women, vanilla is perfect for creating a sophisticated trail. It is often found as a base note, combined with patchouli, cedarwood or sandalwood to bring richness and depth to fragrances. • Citrus-vanilla: Adding fresh citrus notes such as bergamot or mandarin, for a fresh, lively eau de parfum. It softens their lively, tangy character, creating a more balanced, complex fragrance. Citrus notes add a touch of freshness to vanilla, preventing the fragrance from becoming too heavy and sweet. • Musk-vanilla : A warm, gentle accord that can be worn at any time of the day. Notes of musk add sensuality and roundness, while vanilla notes add a sweet, gourmand touch. However, this musky vanilla combination might sometimes seem heavy or overpowering. What is layering? It is a technique used in skincare and fragrance. It involves layering different products to achieve a synergy of results and a unique sensorial experience. In perfumery, the fragrance of vanilla is sometimes reproduced synthetically. In this case, an organic compound called "vanillin" is developed which is also used as a food additive. Lipstick, in its most basic form, is a mixture of oils, waxes, and pigments that can be easily used on our lips. Creating a viable formula is not an easy task, and good lipsticks require a lot of time and sometimes hundreds of variations of the recipe to be perfect. Color, opacity, fragrance, and dryness are just a few of the important properties of lipsticks.
Lipstick now comes in a variety of formulas. You can find cream finish lipsticks, matte liquid lipsticks, lip lacquers, etc. Here we will discover how a basic bullet lipstick is created, the ones we have seen our mothers and grandmothers use, a product many of us cannot leave our house without. Ingredients are chosen pre-hand before making lipstick. The most basic ingredients in any lipstick are waxes, oils, and pigments, but many other substances can be added to the mix to improve specific aspects of the final product and add new features such as fragrance, longevity, and gloss. Preservatives (to ensure longer shelf life), alcohol, fragrance added for customer pleasure, and others are some of the most common secondary ingredients. Most Lipstick formulations follow a basic 4 step process: 1. Pigment mixture The pigments and the quantity of the pigment is carefully selected and carefully mixed. The pigment is then combined with oils and passed through a three-roll mill, which grinds each particle to a size of 20 microns. The typical oil-to-pigment particle ratio is 2 to 1. 2. Combination of pigment with base wax The pigment mixture is then combined into the base wax by simply mixing the liquids in a steam-jacketed kettle with one propeller agitator. Following the mixing of the pigments with the base, the resulting liquid is passed through a three-roll mill and typically ground down to particle sizes of 20 microns. 3. Molding Molding is done at specific temperatures to eliminate certain undesirable byproducts of rapid cooling (also known as “cold marks”). The lipstick liquid is heated to around 80 degrees Celsius and is then poured into vertical split molds kept at 35 degrees Celsius. 4. Flaming Once the lipstick has cooled, it is extracted from the molds and prepared for flaming (passing the sticks near one or more open flame torches to melt a thin layer of gloss around the lipsticks). This procedure will ensure that the lipstick looks better and is protected from outside air and influences (lipsticks can become rancid after prolonged exposure to air). 5. Packaging The lipstick is then packed in it’s own tubes and sealed in the packaging provided by the brand. The last and final step is the lipstick reaching your vanity and being applied on your lips. Eau de Lacoste L.12.12Tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa) is a popular scent in both bath and body products and home fragrances. It's best described as a creamy, honey-like fragrance with a soft floral note. In general, it's a soft, summery scent. Tuberose is an old-fashioned garden plant with an extremely potent fragrance. Originally from Mexico, it has been cultivated for centuries as a cut flower, as well as for the perfume industry.
Tuberose Essentials Tuberose is related to agave plants and has thin, wispy leaves that are reminiscent of its cousins in the arid regions of the southwestern U.S. and Mexico. The stems rise three feet from the ground in late summer and unfold a series of two-inch tubular flowers one by one over the course of many weeks. Tuberose grows from an elongated tuber which is hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10, but the tubers can be dug up and overwintered indoors in colder climates. Growing Tuberose in the Garden Tuberose is a good choice for a cut flower garden along with plants like lisianthus and Shasta daisies. It is suitable for perennial borders and cottage gardens, as well as in pots and planters on a patio or deck. Massing them in a large field is another option, but be prepared to be overpowered by the fragrance. How to Grow Tuberose Plant tuberose in full sun in a bed of rich, well-drained soil. It is a heat-loving plant, so in northern areas or cool coastal climates it is best planted against a south-facing wall for extra warmth. The tubers should be planted on their side about three inches deep and spaced eight to 10 inches apart. Care Overall, tuberose is pretty easy to care for, though if you garden in a colder climate (colder than zone 8) you do have an additional step if you want to save them year to year.
Tuberose Varieties Tuberose is not widely available in nurseries, but it can be found at many mail order suppliers. They're available in both single- and double-flowering varieties. Single Tuberose Single varieties have delicate, single-petalled blooms that have an almost star-shaped form to them.
Double Tuberose Double tuberose varieties have blooms that look almost rose or peony-like, with their multiple petals and fuller blooms.
Tuberose Symbolism Tuberose has come to symbolize many different things, some rather contradictory to others, as you'll see below.
As with most types of symbolism, you'll find the meaning that works for you when working with tuberose. Tuberose Heaven If you're a fan of fragrant flowers, tuberose will win you right over. Few plants possess such sweet, pure, and powerful fragrance -- plant a few tubers and surprise your horticultural friends with this nearly forgotten gem. For the creation of a perfume, in addition to requiring a professional perfumer for the alchemy, combinations, and recombination of ideas, the use of raw materials is essential for crafting a fragrance. From the most classical to the contemporary, we find the ingredients that make up this entire process in nature, sometimes through the secondary involvement of certain animals (although these are rarely used today). These animals initially process natural elements that will subsequently become a future ingredient in perfumery, much like the case of coffee harvested from the feces of Kopi Luwak, who 'process' the beans through their own intestines. Most of the substances of animal origin or those involving wild animals in their production have now been replaced by synthetic ingredients, which effectively meet the same needs, safely replacing any contact and/or manipulation of animals that would cause them suffering or harm. In this regard, I invite you to read a brief exploration of classic perfume ingredients, which are typical and widely used in the fragrances we have in our collections and in our closets, based on our observations and the knowledge we've gained over time. The inspiration for this article came from in-depth studies with perfumers Justine Crane and Ane Walsh and their natural perfumery materials. Rose |
AuthorA makeup obsessed, makeup addict, perfectionist, lip pouting pro artist and beauty writer. Archives
October 2025
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