FASHION-WEEK FACIALISTS SHARE THEIR 5 HACKS FOR PERFECT SKIN, FAST

With long days, little sleep and traveling between four fashion capitals in as many weeks to contend with, how do models keep their skin looking so fresh when they walk the runways? Here, expert aestheticians share their backstage secrets for a flawless complexion with KEEKS REID

The essentials that really count
With time tight and space low backstage, facialists tend to stick to a tried-and-true routine that boasts minimal steps and maximum results. Milena Naydenov, head facialist at 111Skin, has five key steps she sticks to, while the Tata Harper team has whittled it down to four. Essentials include thorough cleansing, eye care, cryo massage, and masking for hydrated, plump-looking skin – the ideal base for any makeup look. When it comes to the first step of the routine, Naydenov focuses on cleansing to ensure makeup artists start with a fresh canvas, and she says it should also be your starting point for replicating model skin at home. 

Focus on the eyes
Undereye puffiness can be a big problem pre-show, so Naydenov turns her attentions to the eye area straight after cleansing to instantly depuff and awaken. I do a light massage around the eyes to stimulate blood circulation, which reduces redness and puffiness, and temporarily tightens the skin, too.

Try an ice massage
If there is time, a full-face massage is excellent for transforming tired-looking skin. “I start my routine using a small steam wand, targeting under the eyes, frown lines, nasolabial folds and lines around the mouth to purify pores, and leave a smoother, more revived complexion,” says Naydenov.

Next, use chilled cryo globes. “Starting from your nose, follow the contours of your face, working the tools underneath your cheeks and sweeping gently upwards, from underneath your cheekbones to the top of your ear,” Naydenov says. Then, repeat the sweeping method along the jawline, and move up to your eyes. “Starting from underneath the inner corner of your eye, hold the tools in place before sweeping upwards towards your temples.” Ensure you have moisturized well with an eye mask or cream for good ‘slip’, then finish on the forehead, working the tools upwards from the center towards the hairline.

Make time for masking
Treatment masks are a huge part of the pre-show glow.  Backstage, the Tata Harper team also relies on masks for juicy-looking skin. “We let it sit for 20 minutes,” reveals Harper. “Then, instead of rinsing off with water, we mist an essence over the mask to create a milky mix of the products that we can massage in. The effect is so good for plumping tired or dry skin.”

Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate
Essences are recommended across the board, to prime the skin for a plumped, pillow-like finish. “I use Antioxidant Essence,” says Naydenov. “They're lightweight and enriches the skin with moisture and preps it for better absorption for the next steps in the routine.” Meanwhile, Harper advises an essence, post-treatment mask, to lock in hydration. Backstage, Harper’s team uses those products to remove remnants of mask residue, too: “It supercharges the results, as you’re not rinsing off the mask,” she adds.