Figure Out What Type of Curls You Have

Mixed Chicks Curly Hair Products

When talking about hair that isn't straight, people and brands tend to lump curly hair into its own big category, assuming that all coils, kinks, curls, and waves can have a one-size-fits-all approach. But anyone with a curl type knows this is far from true—it's a lot of work to identify your curls and develop a routine that actually works.

So, how do you identify your curl type? Hairstylist Andre Walker started a curl typing system, which is still used today and provides a way to label hair types based on texture. It utilizes numbers 1 to 4, with one being straight hair and four being kinky texture, along with subcategories from A to C. A has the widest diameter or pattern size, and C has the smallest. For example, 1A is flat as a pin and define by a very thin texture that can only hold a curl by using styling tools like a curling iron.

It's a lot to think about and remember when you're shopping for products, looking for new ingredients, and trying to style them, so we asked professional hairstylists to break down the different types of curls, so you can easily ID your curls, shop better, and style smarter.

Curl Pattern Types
Curly hair is a term used generically to describe textured hair—from loose waves to Z-shaped coils. But to truly determine your curl type, you have to start with your scalp and look at how the hair follicles grow. "Curly hair follicles are oval-shaped or asymmetrical, so they create an elliptical shape responsible for the curl. In straight hair, all the cells in the follicle act together, so the hair grows evenly from the straight follicle in a round shape," says Gaia Tonanzi, senior brand manager at Curlsmith.

The best time to examine your follicles is when the hair is wet since water weighs down the hair, altering how it looks compared to dry strands. Tonanzi notes that it's important to remember that most people don't fall into a single curl category and actually have multiple patterns on their hair. "The hair on our head grows differently depending on where it is—hair on the back of the neck will have a looser pattern compared to the hair on the front and sides," she says.

Now that we've reviewed the curly hair basics, it's time to dive into specifics. Reference the curl type chart below, then keep reading for a detailed description of each curl type and what type of products to look for.

Types of Curls & Hair Patterns

Type 2 - Wavy Hair Pattern
Type 2 hair ranges from fine to coarse, and includes anything from tousled texture to subtle curls. The curls hold their shape but can still easily deflate or be straightened. If your hair is naturally wavy, forming an “S” shape, it falls under the This category. This type is not as oily but it is neither too dry.  Type 2 hair is further categorized as Type 2a, Type 2b, and Type 2c.

2A Hair Type 
2A hair is fine, type 2a hair has several loose beach waves all over the head. It has a tousled texture, is easy to smooth out using a hair straightener, and lacks volume at the root while slightly curling toward the ends. People with this hair type should use "a light mousse or serums to help plump and give volume to this hair type, instead of creams or oils, which weigh hair down," says Andrew DiMeo, a hairstylist at Nunzio Saviano Salon. This type of hair can also benefit from using products containing rice water to help thicken hair and prevent breakage.

2B Hair Type
2B hair has a flatter crown with more defined S-shape waves starting from the midlength and thicker strands than 2A. Type 2b hair is wavier than type 2a and more defined and tightly drawn than the former. According to DiMeo, try a "sea salt texture spray for enhancing the natural texture."

2C Hair Type
2C hair has a texture that is getting thick, it's more likely to experience frizzing, and the S-bend starts right from the root and is very well-defined. Type 2c hair is often very tightly drawn, so much so that it forms loose spiral curls. It's important to keep this hair moisturized, so DiMeo recommends using a sulfate-free shampoo, which helps not strip natural oils and moisture away.

Type 3 - Curly Hair Pattern
Type 3 hair ranges from loopy S-pattern curls to tight ringlets. This hair type is naturally curly and forms a defined “S”. Type 3 hair is known to form ringlets without having to use any hair products or tools and is usually dry.  Under the Type 3 hair category, there are Type 3a, Type 3b, and Type 3c types.

3A Hair Type
3A hair tends to have large loose curls. Type 3a hair forms smooth curls that may even be silky to touch. However, the hair is fragile, so make sure to limit touching your hair, which will disturb the curls and create frizz. "When the hair is damp, apply a curl cream with defrizzing and moisture properties to help maintain moisture and reduce frizz when diffusing or air drying," DiMeo says.

3B Hair Type
3B hair types have springy, coarse ringlets that can be more prone to dryness. Type 3b hair consists of springy and spiraled curls. Many half-black women possess this hair type."Products containing humectants work well with this hair type because humectants attract moisture to hair strands," DiMeo shares. Opt for a styling gel containing humectants to give definition and reduce frizz. It's best to use a hair brush like the Denman D3 Original Styler, which is considered the holy grail for curly hair.

3C Hair Type
Hair type 3C is defined by its tight corkscrew curls that are densely packed together with natural volume. Type 3c hair is very tightly drawn, coily, and highly textured. This hair is also impacted by humidity and frizzes quickly. To keep curls from drying out, "use a sulfate-free shampoo and layer mousse and styling creams into wet hair to help curls clump together for a softer, stronger, and more natural curl pattern," DiMeo explains. 

Type 4 - Kinky Hair Pattern
Type 4 hair has tight, small, kinky curls that are naturally dry, and the texture can range from fine to coarse. The hair is tightly drawn but does not form ringlets like Type 3. Also, this type of hair hardly changes shape whether it is dry or wet. Due to the shape of this hair type, you will notice that its hair strands are extremely dry. Type 4a, Type 4b, and Type 4c types come under this hair category.

4A Hair Type
4A hair types have a visible curl pattern with springy S-shaped coils that are densely packed and require more frequent maintenance to keep coils manageable. Type 4a hair is usually tightly drawn and forms tight coils or cylindrical curls. "Use a curl cream and a leave-in conditioner with moisturizing ingredients to give the hair proper daily hydration and to make styling easier," shares DiMeo. When choosing a scalp massager to detox the scalp and reduce buildup, look for one designed for type 4 curls.

4B Hair Type
People with 4B hair have densely packed strands with sharp Z-shaped angles instead of coils. Type 4b has a crimpy pattern, even more than cylindrical curls. Since this hair is highly prone to dryness, DiMeo tells clients to use gentle cleansing conditioners and to rely on moisture sprays and leave-in conditioners to keep hair hydrated between washes.

4C Hair Type
4C hair is even more fragile than 4B hair because of its tight zigzag pattern prone to shrinkage. Type 4c is almost “Z” shaped and has a zigzag pattern. It has little to no defined sections. With this hair type, it's essential to stay away from sulfates that strip and dull the hair. Instead, "look for natural oils like argan, shea butter, and coconut oil, and heavier creams to keep this hair type moisturized," says DiMeo.