How To Add Gua Sha To Your Beauty Routine According To A Top Esthetician

Sisley Paris Gingko Gua Sha

Gua Sha. By now, you’ve probably read about it. Or watched a TikTok tutorial. Or perhaps you’ve tried a swipe of the nifty, tooth-shaped gua sha tool. So, what exactly is it — and what’s all the fuss all about?

Hailing from Chinese medicine, gua sha (meaning ‘scrape sand’) has been used for centuries to help “facilitate the return to balanced equilibrium in the body and in the tissues,” said Austin-based holistic esthetician Britta Plug. In fact, the technique was originally used “to reduce fevers and alleviate aches,” said Plug, who has over 20 years of experience.

These days, gua sha seems to be all the rage. Having gained popularity in the West, it’s light, gentle and effective. And while learning requires some practice (and patience), the sole goal remains: to move stagnation out of the tissue “so that the flow of blood, lymph and qi can be restored,” said Plug.

So does gua sha really work? Yes! Below, Plug shares the benefits (you can also follow @Brittabeauty for in-depth tutorials and tips).

1. A clearer, brighter complexion – when waste backs up in the tissue, skin looks dull, congested and breakout prone. Restoring flow brings a lit from within glow while also reducing congestion as the lymphatic system is encouraged to move waste out of the area.
2. Sculpting and firming – excess fluids can accumulate in the tissues, when we start to move those along lymphatic pathways the result is a more sculpted and toned face.
3. Tension Release – gua sha can help release tension and worries from our face as we gently encourage our muscles of expression to relax.
4. Fine lines and wrinkle reduction – all of the above help to smooth out and plump up lines and wrinkles.

Facial Gua Sha Basics (Hint: Don’t Sweat the Technique)
Psssstt: it breaks down to direction, angle and pressure. “We work zone by zone, starting with the neck and shoulders, opening the flow and releasing — and working up the face,” Plug said. This allows fluids a chance to drain and unwinds tension from larger muscle groups (before you target smaller facial muscles). “You’ll want a light oil layer for slip and glide” she said. In fact, Plug prefers an oil for absorbing moisturizers and moving the stone smoothly over the skin.

Direction
For the neck, Plug typically works down to drain and depuff and up to lift. On the face, she works from the center out to the edge of the face. On the forehead, you can work outwards or upwards.

Angle
Keep the stone fairly flat. “You want to feel a lot of surface area in contact with the skin,” Plug said. Instinctively, folks might hold the tool perpendicular “but you won’t get nearly the same level of results this way,” she quips. Exception: holding the tool as you see fit for the the back of the neck and shoulders.

Pressure
Lighter and slower than you think. “Think of frosting a cake. Close your eyes and tune into the sensations. It should feel incredibly soothing,” said Plug who mentions practicing 3-10 passes on each area.

“With consistent practice over time, this can change how your face ages,” added Plug, suggesting 10 minutes per day, 3 or more times weekly will begin to create and maintain shifts. The result? “The skin will be more vibrant, and face shape more true to your essence,” said Plug.

Also: slow, gentle movements on the face help you enter “the rest, digest and repair of the parasympathetic nervous system,” added Plug. You can also “work the soft area behind the angle of the jaw, near the ear,” Plug said, pointing to where the all-important vagus nerve passes through. “Stimulating the vagus nerve helps the body to move into the parasymathetic nervous system,” she said.

While its known to be safe and gentle, Plug advises avoiding gua sha on inflamed skin (i.e., sunburn, acne, rosacea) and filler injections. Similarly, don't use over fresh botox; waiting at least a few weeks for it to settle. Pregnant? Use light very pressure — and skip the tops of the shoulders. Any other concerns? Talk to your doctor.