How to Safely Exfoliate Your Face at Home — A Guide to Skin Types and Exfoliation Benefits

Clarins Face Scrubs

Exfoliating can be an effective way to give your skin a new lease on life. It removes dead skin cells, helps unclog pores, and can even brighten dull-looking skin. Still, if you’re not careful, you could do more harm than good. That’s why it’s important to know how to safely exfoliate at home. If you’re new to DIY exfoliation, read on for tips to help make your home exfoliation experience as safe and effective as possible. 

What is exfoliation, anyway?
Exfoliation is the process of removing a buildup of dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. Physical exfoliation includes using tools like a face scrub, loofah, or washcloth to manually remove dead skin cells from the skin’s surface, while chemical exfoliation involves the use of acids like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) to break down bonds between the skin cells

What are the benefits of exfoliation?
Fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation appear on the skin as we age. Introducing exfoliation to your skincare routine can significantly reduce these issues and improve the look and feel of your skin. Here are some of the benefits of exfoliation, according to experts: 

• Improves skin texture. Skin exfoliation helps to slough off dead cells, leaving you with smoother, softer-feeling skin.

• Unclogged pores. By removing a layer of dead skin cells, exfoliation helps to unclog pores and make them appear smaller.

• Brighter complexion. Exfoliation helps reduce the appearance of dark spots, giving skin a brighter, more even-toned look.

• Better absorption of skincare products. Exfoliating allows skincare products to penetrate the skin more effectively, resulting in better results overall.

Exactly How To Exfoliate Your Face—Without Ruining Your Skin


What are the are two types of exfoliation?

• Mechanical: Mechanical exfoliation typically employs a tool (like an oscillating cleansing brush or even a washcloth) or face scrub to physically remove the dead skin cells. If you go the scrub route, the finer the particle, the better off you’ll be because they’re less abrasive. 
• Chemical: Chemical exfoliators, on the other hand, use alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) - or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) (think: a face wash with salicylic acid or a facial peel pad or moisturizer with glycolic acid) to dissolve the sticky glue that holds these cells together, says Dr. Shah. According to Dr. Shah, retinoids can also be considered exfoliants, since they also work to increase cell turnover. “I find that if people are using retinoids, they don’t really need to exfoliate on top of that,” she says.

The best exfoliating method for you really depends on your preferences, as well as what kind of skin you have (more on that in a sec). But TBH, Dr. Shah says that dermatologists are recommending chemical exfoliation more than mechanical methods these days, especially since scrubs have the potential to create small tears in the skin

How do you exfoliate your face?
Here’s how to safely execute facial exfoliation from the comfort of your home:

Step 1: Identify your skin type.
Different skin types require different types of exfoliation, so it’s important to Identify your skin type before you begin. Not sure what your skin type is? Look closely in the mirror to assess it. 

Dry skin is characterized by a lack of moisture, often leading to flakiness, tightness, and rough texture. Factors like cold weather, harsh soaps, and hot showers may cause or worsen it. 

Oily skin is caused by excess sebum production, which may result in a shiny appearance and enlarged pores. It’s prone to breakouts and acne due to the buildup of oil and dead skin cells.

Combination skin presents as a mix of dry and oily skin, typically featuring an oily T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin) and drier cheeks. It requires a balanced skincare routine to address both areas without exacerbating either condition. Sensitive skin is prone to redness, irritation, and itching. It may react negatively to certain skincare products, environmental factors, or allergens. If you haven’t noticed any of the above in your skin, you may have normal skin. 

Normal skin is well-balanced, with an even distribution of moisture and sebum. It has a healthy appearance, small pores, and is generally less prone to breakouts

Step 2: Choose the right exfoliator for your skin. 
Once you’ve identified your skin type, it’s time to choose the right exfoliator.  For example, people with dry skin should use gentler chemical exfoliators, while those with oily skin can benefit more from manual exfoliators. However, a scrub might not be the best option for acne-prone skin, which would instead benefit from chemical exfoliants like toners or peels.

Step 3: Prepare your skin for exfoliation 
To prepare your skin for exfoliation, wash your face with a gentle cleanser and warm water. This will help to remove dirt and excess oil from your skin, allowing the exfoliator to penetrate deeper and work more effectively. 

Step 4: Exfoliate.
Once your skin is prepped, it’s time to exfoliate. Take a small amount of your chosen exfoliator and apply it to your face in a circular motion. For physical exfoliators, use gentle strokes; for chemical exfoliators, use a circular tapping motion. Continue for one to two minutes, then rinse with lukewarm water.

Step 5: Moisturize.
Once you’ve finished exfoliating, following up with a moisturizer is important. Use a light, non-greasy moisturizer to hydrate and protect skin. Additionally, using facial oil after exfoliating can help to seal in moisture and provide additional protection. 

How often should you exfoliate your face?
When it comes to the frequency of exfoliation, it’s important to find the right balance. Exfoliate too often, and you risk causing skin irritation, breakouts, blackheads, and other issues. On the other hand, infrequent exfoliation can lead to dull, congested skin. Factors that affect the frequency of exfoliation include skin type, age, health, and lifestyle. If you have sensitive skin, start off slow and only exfoliate once or twice a week, then gradually increase the frequency as your skin adjusts. You can exfoliate two to three times a week if you have normal or oily skin. 
As a general rule, less is more. The goal is NOT to turn beet-red or to feel a sting—it’s to gently help along your body’s natural exfoliation process so that your face glows. As for specifics on how often you should exfoliate, it depends on your skin type.

• For sensitive skin: According to Dr. Shah, people with sensitive skin usually have trouble finding facial skin-care products that aren’t irritating. Their skin tends to turn red and often gets itchy, she explains. If that sounds like you, she advises skipping exfoliation altogether. But if you feel like you have to exfoliate, just use a creamy cleanser with a low percentage of glycolic acid once a week, she says.
• For oily skin: People with oily skin might see a fine sheen on their face pretty early into the day, according to Dr. Shah. “And if you’re prone to acne, or you feel like your pores get clogged often, that’s usually an indication of excess sebum production, which is associated with oily skin,” she says. If you do have oily skin, you have a lot more freedom with your regimen—Dr. Shah says you can exfoliate up to four times per week (just make sure you work up to it over time), and your skin can probably tolerate both chemical and mechanical exfoliation. One option for your regimen, according to Dr. Shah, is to use an AHA-based cleanser two to three times per week and a facial peel pad once per week. Alternatively, you might work up to using a retinoid every day.
• For normal to combination skin: Dr. Shah advises exfoliating twice per week by using a retinoid or an AHA or BHA cleanser.

How to exfoliate your face
Mechanical Exfoliation

1. Using a clean brush or your favorite scrub, move in small, gentle, circular strokes around your face, says Dr. Shah.
2. Keep your movements light. Shah says think of it more like caressing flower petals rather than rubbing a stain out of your favorite shirt.
3. Rinse with lukewarm water so your freshly exfoliated face isn’t irritated by hot water.
4. Pat face dry and apply moisturizer. Don't skip this—Dr. Shah says exfoliation is always a bit drying.

Chemical Exfoliation

1. Take your favorite chemical exfoliant and apply gently in small, circular motions after cleansing.
2. If it's a product that sits on your face (like a peel), follow the package directions for how long you should wait before rinsing off your face. If it's a face wash, lightly rinse your face with lukewarm water.
3. Pat face dry and apply moisturizer. Again, don't skip this step!

When should you skip exfoliation?
If you're mid-breakout, you might be tempted to go to town with exfoliants—but you should actually avoid abrasive mechanical methods. Exfoliation in a lot of my acne patients doing more harm than good.

Why? If you have cystic or chronic acne, your skin is already inflamed. So irritating it further with harsher exfoliants can leave behind dark marks known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The marks can last even longer (and happen more often) in people who have tan to deeper skin tones, Dr. Shah adds. As for chemical exfoliants, they can help in some cases, she explains, but it’s best to get advice from your dermatologist before going for it, because you’ll want to take a more nuanced approach to your exfoliation regimen.

Other times you should hold off on exfoliation: when you have any kind of cut or open wound on your face, if you have an infection on your face like a cold sore (it'll spread!), or if you're sunburned. Moisturizer and TLC is more of what your skin needs during those times.