How to Use Barrier Creams

Skin balms, salves, ointments; Barrier creams go by many a name, but they’ve all got the same goal in mind—to keep your skin hydrated and protected. They can be useful if your skin’s natural barrier function isn’t working as it should, whether it's because of a skin condition (think: eczema, dermatitis, rosacea, and acne) or just an effect of the cold, dry winter.

Still, no matter the cause of your skin woes, one thing's for sure: Dry and/or damaged skin can be a real drag. That's why our ears perked up when we heard about a product on the market promising us healthy and hydrated skin. But what are barrier creams, exactly? How do they even work, and what are the best ones to use? To find out what skin barrier creams are all about, we turned to board-certified dermatologists. Dr. Alicia Zalka and Dr. Annie Gonzalez.

MEET THE EXPERT

• Dr. Alicia Zalka is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Surface Deep. 
• Annie Gonzalez, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Riverchase Dermatology. She is based in Miami, FL.

What Is Barrier Cream? "Barrier creams are used to aid the skin in its most vital function: to keep what's good in and to keep what's bad out," says Zalka.

Gonzalez explains: "Barrier creams maintain and protect the physical barrier of the skin and prevent the skin from drying out. They stop transepidermal water loss and skin breakdown by providing a topical barrier on the skin. These creams can also heal skin tears and existing wounds." By acting as a shield against potential irritants, they are designed to create the ideal environment for damaged skin to restore itself.

So if barrier creams work by forming a protective layer over the surface of your skin, locking vital moisture in, are they essentially the same thing as, say, moisturizers? Not exactly. According to Gonzalez, "A moisturizer hydrates the outer layer of the skin while barrier creams restore the skin barrier itself. Barrier creams repair damaged skin, allow the skin to heal itself, and are usually thicker, while moisturizers enhance skin hydration." Zalka compares barrier creams to "adding a tarp over a leaky roof" and notes that common ingredients in barrier creams include petrolatum, wax, ceramides, dimethicone, zinc oxide, nicotinamide, hyaluronic acid and glycerin.

How to Use Barrier Creams According to Zalka, barrier creams have a number of uses, including:

• Reducing friction and irritation
• Retaining moisture and suppleness of the skin (aka reducing transepidermal water loss)
• Soothing burns and other injuries
• Softening dry skin (think: chapped lips and nostrils in the winter)
• Protecting from chemicals or environmental insults (can be used on hands as an invisible glove)
• Helping wound healing
• Sealing cracks or fissures in the skin

Since they act as a protective seal on the skin—face and body—and therefore, prevent anything you apply on top from being absorbed properly, you’re likely best off using a barrier cream last in your daytime routine or slathering it on over your serum at night for an intensive hydration session. "You can use a barrier cream every 40 to 72 hours, and I recommend using it as your final step in your skincare regime and after you moisturize. You should apply barrier cream last because any other product you apply afterward will not penetrate the skin," recommends Gonzalez.

Certain products work especially well with barrier creams, encouraging them to perform better. For example, "If you use anti-aging serums or peptides for your skin, the barrier cream may help these products penetrate the skin more easily (but remember to apply barrier cream last)," says Gonzalez. She also warns: "When using barrier creams, avoid sodium lauryl sulfate to avoid irritation of the skin." Fortunately, most barrier creams can be used safely and effectively with no side effects; however, if you experience any irritation after using a barrier cream that persists or worsens, it's best to stop use immediately and consult a medical professional.