Meet Hermès Perfumer Christine Nagel, The Heart of Twilly

Photography by Denis Boulze

What makes Twilly d’Hermès such a compelling line? It must be the fragrances’ complementary role as a tribute to the house’s silk universe. Made up of Twilly d’Hermès, Twilly d’Hermès Eau Ginger, Twilly d’Hermès Eau Poivree, and most recently, Tutti Twilly d’Hermès, the four scents invoke the senses and encourage wearers to open themselves up to reinvention.

To find out more about what inspires the emblematic range, we look to Hermès perfumer Christine Nagel to understand how her approach to olfaction aligns with the house. “At Hermès, the beauty of raw materials lies at the core, the very heart, of every métier,” she says. “Absolute rigour in the selection of materials, the development of know-how and attention to detail are all characteristics that nourish the uniqueness of Hermès objects.”
​
Nagel elaborates: “All this is central to my decision-making. I never compromise on quality or details, even when they are invisible. Hermès gives us this unique freedom to choose our raw materials. It’s an absolute luxury that allows me to go where no one else can go. So I make the most of it and don’t restrict myself. The values of Hermès nourish my everyday work and that of my staff.”

"With Hermès’ legacy and reputation for quality and craftsmanship in mind, it’s no wonder Nagel has this unyielding approach to perfumery. That’s not to say she limits herself in the creative aspects of designing a new perfume — after all, the perfumer considers scent her life, expertise, and chosen profession that continues to fascinate and keep her on her toes to this day.
​
“I’m both curious and sensitive, so each new day brings its share of images, impressions and encounters that leave their mark on me,” she adds. “They feed my imagination and creativity continuously. I store them away in my memory and they express themselves in fragrance when the time comes to compose a new fragrance, to tell a story with scent by exploring a personal path. The main thing is to trigger an emotion, to feel and give pleasure. Eventually, there comes a point where the answers to all the questions I’ve been asking myself are distilled in the bottle. That’s when I know a fragrance is ready.

Tutti Twilly d’Hermès. Photography by Studio Des Fleurs

Last month, Nagel dropped the fourth addition to the Twilly d’Hermès range: Tutti Twilly d’Hermès, a scent described by aficionados as the feeling of being spontaneous and free. “Like in art, there are a thousand and one ways of painting the same portrait,” says Nagel as she delves into the creation of the scent. “The spirit, structure and imaginative world must be maintained, while still leaving one’s signature. The structure has not changed, it is no different. I start with this structure, the idea of creation, and work on it in another way. Without disrupting the codes of the original, by preserving the same balance, beautiful materials and structure, we really can create a new version.”
​
As for how she chose the right ingredients to form a scent that best expresses its ideal qualities, the perfumer gives credit to shifting perspectives. “I probably wouldn’t have distilled this promise of fascinating women if I hadn’t been able to extract new expressions from the materials,” she explains. “Some of them reveal multiple facets to me and make me want to look at the project from other angles. Ginger is undeniably one of them. To accompany the delicacy of ginger blossom and the ethereal aspect of lychee, I wanted to incorporate the enveloping character of musk. I like comparing it to a petticoat that gives body to a skirt, structures the silhouette, and adds style without being seen.”

As for how each scent in the line complements each other, it’s all down to the boldness of youth as a source of inspiration for Nagel. “As a tribute to their youthful spirit, their love of doing and undoing, of being themselves and reinventing themselves, I wanted to offer a new twist, a different expression of Twilly that reveals the timeless facet of their personalities,” she says.

Despite its influences, Nagel does not envision a fixed personality wearing Tutti Twilly d’Hermès. “The fragrance exists in itself, not in relation to its destination,” she explains. “Fragrances have no gender any more than colours, sounds and tastes do. Fragrances are works of art that exist in their own right. I do imagine, however, a vibrant and joyful personality.”
​
Now, the perfumer is approaching her 10-year mark since joining the house. “This recognition is a source of delight every day because I am living my dream, creating fragrances that uphold and embody all the values of this house,” she says. “It is a wonderful creative challenge to be part of its saga and hold a role in a house like Hermès, with the creative freedom it offers us, and to be bold and present new directions.”