RABANNE'S SIGNATURE METALLICS TAKE CENTER STAGE IN NEW GEN-Z MAKEUP LINE

8/23/2023

A debut makeup line from the house of Paco Rabanne honors the late designer’s iconic metalwork and prompts an experimental streak.

The fashion press was not prepared for Paco Rabanne’s first runway show in 1966. The title alone was a provocation: “Twelve Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials.” Models strode through Paris’s Hotel George V wearing jangly constructions made of Rhodoid or metal tiles, each pieced together with rings using needle-nose pliers. (“Sewing is a bondage,” Rabanne, who died this past February, used to say—an opinion likely informed by his seamstress mother’s work at the Balenciaga atelier.) Le Nouvel Observateur decried the collection as “plastic bombing,” as if it were a blitzkrieg on good taste. But the designer’s chain mail futurism soon caught on with a mod warrior class that included Françoise Hardy, Jane Fonda, and Peggy Guggenheim. By 1969, a year of lunar landings and sexual liberation, Rabanne expanded into perfume, calling his women’s scent Calandre—French for “car grill.”

Paco Rabanne on the set of Casino Royale, 1966.TRINITY MIRROR / MIRRORPIX / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

After 54 years of success in the fragrance field, Rabanne is expanding its reach in the beauty industry via a new makeup line, Rabanne Beauty.

Though the French label rebranded to a singular name just two months ago, Rabanne Beauty remains grounded in the original codes upon which late designer Paco Rabanne built the brand in 1966. The star of the new line isn't necessarily any one product, but rather elements like an emphasis on metallics that have defined the Rabanne brand since its founding. The full collection, which debuts direct-to-consumer on PacoRabanne.com on Monday, includes 18 lip products, 26 eye shadow offerings — in both creams and powders — a three-step mascara routine, three multi-purpose glitter sprays, two metallic "serums" and a 30-shade foundation range. Its broader retail rollout at select Ulta Beauty stores nationwide and Ulta.com is set for October.

"We wanted to make something very accessible, but also aspirational. So people can look at these colors and images and not feel frightened of looking at something saying, 'Oh, I'm not sure I can do that or wear that,'" makeup artist Diane Kendal, who serves as the brand's creative director, tells Fashionista.

Housed in shiny chrome packaging, the eye shadow palettes (which come in duos and quads) feature a medley of textures and finishes, including soft sparkle, matte, gloss and metal. For those seeking a bolder, guaranteed-statement-making look, there are the intensely pigmented cream shadows (dubbed "Colorshots" by the brand), which also feature a range of bright metal hues amongst a broader 12-shade offering.

With its lineup of vibrant chrome-clad SKUs, Rabanne joins an emerging cohort of colour cosmetics brands aiming to capture a Gen-Z audience with luxury labels and sleek, modern aesthetics

As part of its play for Gen-Z shoppers, Rabanne Beauty wants to emphasize a spirit of playfulness and experimentation, rather than one of singularity or perfection.

"I love the idea of things not being perfect — I hate perfect. I used to think, you have to comb out mascara to make sure there are no clumps and everything has to be blended…You want to be able to sort of make a mistake and think, 'Oh, I actually like it. Let's just leave it,'" says Kendal of her current philosophy and approach to the range.

In line with that perfection-eschewing ethos, the brand's Fresh Touch Foundation is a light-to-medium coverage formula that's meant to create a glow-y base and celebrate the wearer's natural skin tone, rather than cover it up. "I love when you can still see the skin through [a foundation] and you've just evened out the skin tone a little bit, but the skin still looks healthy," says Kendal. "I like that element of things being a bit unfinished."

"We're thrilled to introduce Rabanne Beauty to our prestige cosmetics assortment," said Maria Salcedo, senior vice president of merchandising at Ulta Beauty in a press release. "We know our loyal beauty enthusiasts will fall in love with the unique packaging, innovative formulas and bold, expressive pigments and shades. As the exclusive U.S. retailer, we're proud to be an integral partner to this iconic brand and provide access and awareness to this next phase of growth for The Maison."
Ahead, get a first look at the inaugural Rabanne Beauty product lineup — including individual shades and pricing.