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Scalp-care is the new skincare

9/18/2023

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Kerastase Fusio Scalp Scrub 

Suffering from an oily scalp? Consider an exfoliating scrub to cleanse impurities and dead skin cell build-up. Look to slice through all the build-up? Book yourself for a scalp facial to unclog your follicles. Trying to shake off dandruff? Reach for a tea tree oil serum to keep those flakes away. Indeed, the world of scalpcare has exploded and there is now a targeted treatment available for every concern—or you can even choose to DIY your own over the weekends, from growth tonics featuring apple cider vinegar and coconut oil to raw aloe vera gel as a scalp treatment for boosting hair growth and UV protection.

So, what has prompted this sudden interest in scalpcare? “Scalp is an extension of our skin, but we seldom give it the same level of attention as the rest of our body. However, with hairfall being a key concern in the post-pandemic world, indulging in a scalpcare routine at the salon and or at home has become a necessity,” observes Shweta Sahni, national education manager at L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. The result is the skinification of haircare as multi-step routines are no longer just restricted to the face. “The age-old shampoo-and-conditioner gig is no longer enough,” declares noted skin aesthetician and cosmetologist, Dr Geetika Gupta. She adds, “We now have serums, exfoliators, natural oils, rinse-off and leave-in products that have been inspiring people to develop a multi-step routine for their scalp as well.” The spike in interest in scalpcare has also triggered the rise of in-salon treatments, such as scalp facials aka scalpcials—multi-step treatments designed to boost scalp health and give you the luscious mane of your dreams.

The same principles of skincare now apply to scalpcare, and the ingredient savviness among everyday consumers has been imported over to haircare as well. Dr Gupta affirms, “The modern-day consumer is more cognisant of the ingredients they are using and are prone to carrying out detailed research about what they apply on their scalp. For instance, it is now common knowledge that the presence of salicylic acid in clarifying shampoos helps in dislodging the sebum secretion from the scalp and allows hair follicles to breathe.” Spurred by this consumer interest, there has been a rise in products employing different types of acids and actives for solving specific consumer concerns, similar to the skincare aisle.

The rise of scalpcare can also be co-related to the point that we are in with the pandemic. As the world cautiously embraces a fully vaccinated future, we are now investing greater energy in our appearance. “While we were all locked indoors, interest towards vanity may have vaned. But as we step out again, the onus is on emerging from the cocoon as the best version of ourselves. It is also likely that the increase in the use of hairstyling tools again has generated interest in aftercare for the scalp,” she theorises.

And the crucial spot you are forgetting to add sunscreen according to dermatologists? You guessed it! Your scalp!

There's no missing it once it's happened: You did your due diligence and covered your body in sunscreen, but neglected a lone strip of skin at the crown of your head — and the proof is in the angry shade of pink it's turned. (Another observation: Your strands somehow feel more fried than usual?)

If you've lived through the jarring experience of a sun-singed scalp, or just wondered about hair and scalp SPF, you've come to the right place. "Hair helps maintain body temperature during colder months and blocks UV rays," explains Joshua Zeichner, MD, Associate Professor of Dermatology and the Director of Cosmetic & Clinical Research in Dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. "When the hair is parted, or in cases where the hair is thinning, the scalp may be directly exposed to the sun; the scalp is at particular risk since it points upwards directly to the sun and often goes unprotected."

Now, we get that it might feel like Big Sunscreen is out here trying to sell you on another product. But while the scalp-specific SPF category is actively growing, we have it on record that any sunscreen lotion will work, as long as you don't mind a little grease at the roots. "You can use the same sunscreens for your face as you can for your scalp," Dr. Zeichner says. "Apply sunscreen starting with the center of your face and rubbing it up and outwards into the hairline to ensure no missed area. Then, take a drop on your finger and run it down your part line." Voilà — no scorched scalps here.

Avoiding a nasty sunburn is one thing, but if you have color-treated hair, UV rays can also compromise your investment. "Besides increasing the risk of skin cancer, rays from the sun can bleach dyed hair," Dr. Zeichner says.  "That's why sitting in the shade, wearing a hat, or using an umbrella is important." To get you started on your hairscreen journey, we've rounded up six of the best formulas to try this summer and beyond. (Psst, some of them even double as dry shampoo.)
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