Seaweed farmers in eastern Indonesia struggle in a changing climate

It’s a sunny day off the coast of Piru village on the island district of West Seram, in Indonesia’s Maluku province. La Samiun and his wife are out on their wooden boat, along with a cargo of three sacks of seaweed seedlings.Over the course of the day, they’ll attach the seaweed to a single nylon rope strung between two piles, then lower the line underwater where the seaweed will grow until it’s ready for harvest.
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La Samiun says he hopes it takes the usual 45 days or so until he can harvest the seaweed. But he’s well aware, like many other seaweed farmers in this region, that he may have to harvest it sooner, when it hasn’t grown quite as big as he’d like — and thus fetch a lower price than he’d hoped for — because of increasingly unpredictable weather patterns.

“The east monsoon wind was supposed to have started in April. In reality, it’s still the west monsoon wind,” La Samiun tells Mongabay Indonesia. He wonders aloud whether climate change is the cause for the shifting monsoon seasons.

Sea kelp, which is a type of brown algal seaweed. Although true kelp has a specific classification in the family Laminariaceae or giant kelp (per the University of Rochester), we often see seaweed of this kind fall under the broader class of Phaeophyceae, also known as brown algae. As a food and cosmetic ingredient, it's incredibly versatile and may already be in many products that you are familiar with or have in your beauty collection.

For instance, you can find it as an emulsifier, typically in the form of alginates that join ingredients that don't usually mix, like water and oil. It's also a thickener and stabilizer for many products, helping you get the kind of smooth consistency you'd expect from your moisturizers or creams. It has many additional properties which makes it particularly useful as the base or as an additive for cosmetics.

It's also a great source of nutritional vitamins and minerals, and in some countries is considered a dietary staple. It's more common for people in the West to use it in supplements because it's loaded with antioxidants, which may potentially help with heart, gut, and overall metabolic health, according to Healthline. 

La Samiun and his wife preparing to plant seaweed seedlings at their aquafarm. Image by Jaya Barends/Mongabay Indonesia.

For Indonesian seaweed farmers like La Samiun, both the east and west monsoon winds and their predictability play a huge role in the planting strategy and growth of Eucheuma cottonii seaweed, a commercially valuable species whose extract is used in the food and cosmetics industries as a gelling agent. The east wind, characterized by the dry season, creates the ideal conditions for the seaweed to grow, while the west wind brings rain that farmers believe slow the growth of the plants. Ramli, a seaweed farmer from Wael village, near Piru, says he began noticing the shift in the monsoon period in 2020.

“The east monsoon wind used to blow in March. Between 2020 and 2022, it shifted to April,” he says. “It seems that this year it will miss the prediction again.” Ramli blames this change for the slower pace of growth of his seaweed, saying that if he doesn’t harvest while it’s still at a suboptimal size, the seaweed succumbs to a bacterial infestation that causes it to harden and whiten. That’s because when the sea surface temperature hits 31-32° Celsius (88-90° Fahrenheit), certain bacteria in the water grow faster than normal and start attacking E. cottonii and other marine organisms.

Indonesia’s national meteorological agency says the country is expected to hit the peak of the dry season around July and August this year. Muhammad Fadli, lead researcher in physics oceanography at the National Research and Innovation Agency (BRIN), says the changing local climate between 2020-2022 was likely worsened by La Niña, a cyclical climate phenomenon that pushes warm water toward Asia region. Along with its counterpart, El Niño, it typically occurs once every few years. But climate change may have shortened the period for each phenomenon, subsequently changing the pattern for the monsoon winds, Fadli says.

​“In 2023, there’s still La Niña and it doesn’t seem to be ending soon,” he says. “The seaweed farms will be very disrupted.

What are the skincare benefits of Seakelp?
Lets highlight some of the benefits of sea kelp and what it can do in your beauty routine. Spoiler: It's a lot.

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It can help maintain the skin's barrier
The efficacy of the skin's barrier is related to water loss. Although our skin is constantly exchanging water, when we're losing more water than the barrier needs to function optimally, this can be detrimental to skin health. According to dermatologist Dr. Dray, when our skin barrier is damaged, we increase the risk of infections, irritation, inflammation, and a multitude of other skin issues.

Macroalgae (or seaweed as you might know them) such as sea kelp have a variety of biological compounds, which can vary substantially because of the whopping 1,800 different species found in the brown algae group alone (per American Scientist). And among these are those that can help protect against transdermal water loss, ultimately promoting moisture retention.

For instance, research in a 2019 journal of Natural Products and Bioprospecting shows that certain brown algae stimulate skin to make hyaluronic acid, a type of complex carbohydrate that can help bind moisture to the skin and therefore reduce water loss. In addition, because it contains alginates (found in the walls of sea kelp) which can draw in and retain water, it can be doubly effective in aiding with moisture retention and preventing loss.

It can help repair sun-damaged skin
A 2019 research in the Journal of Marine Drugs explains that since seaweeds are often exposed to extreme sun throughout their life, they have developed various processes which give them a unique set of protections from damage. One of these is a high antioxidant content which helps to mitigate the effects of sun damage, and another is phlorotannins, a unique compound that has photoprotective abilities, meaning it can filter UV.

Another notable compound found in the study is a molecule called fucoxanthin (a pigment that gives the seaweed color). This inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is the main catalyst for hyperpigmentation or excess melanin, one of the results of sun damage.

And finally, the third significant means of sun damage mitigation that brown algae offer is wound healing. In a 2022 study in the Journal of Algal Research on fermented sea kelp, it noted that fucoidan (another type of complex carb found in the cell wall) could promote wound healing. Researchers observed that it helped to stimulate the movement of skin repair cells to wounds, aiding in regenerating the top layer of skin.

Gentle exfoliation for sensitive skin
Although skin naturally undergoes cell turnover, the addition of exfoliating products can aid this process in clearing debris and uncovering fresh skin below. However, chemical and physical exfoliants can often be quite harsh and irritating to some skin types. For instance, people with sensitive skin generally have a lower tolerance to cosmetic products, and the body can trigger an immune system response in the form of inflammation, redness, and rashes, according to DermNet.

This is where algae-based (specifically brown seaweeds) products can aid in removing dead skin cells without irritation, while simultaneously maintaining moisture. When sea kelp is added to exfoliants, research in 2019 (per the International Journal of Biological Macromolecules) shows that its components help to decrease sebum (i.e., oiliness), increase skin hydration, and retain water better than synthetic ingredients. Moreover, when compared to the synthetic variety, the algae-based exfoliator also caused less redness and irritation.

This may be because the alginates we find in sea kelp appear to be very compatible with the skin (when compared to other products). For instance, reviews on their properties highlight that they have no toxic effects on cells, not even the eyes — so they're unlikely to cause irritation even in sensitive skin (per the 2021 book "Alginates – A Seaweed Product").

It can help reduce the appearance of fine lines
Probably what sea kelp is most famous for is its role in mitigating photoaging, i.e., when the sun prematurely ages the skin. Sea kelp does this by combating free radicals or oxidants. These oxygen molecules generated by UV are responsible for triggering photoaging and attacking the skin's cells, as well as causing cellular damage and a loss of structural integrity — two things which are the essence of wrinkle and fine line formation (per the Comprehensive Series in Photosciences, volume 3).

According to 2021 research in the Journal of Marine Drugs, sea kelp's fucoidan can act as an antioxidant, which means it breaks down destructive oxidants into more stable products. This reduces cellular damage while at the same time aids in restoring the skin's barrier. Coupled with another compound that brown algae species have — mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), molecules that form the building blocks of proteins — they can help to synthesize structural proteins like collagen, reinforcing the skin's structure to prevent wrinkle formation.

Sea kelp may help reduce the appearance of cellulite
In cellulite, fatty tissue pockets poke through the underlying skin, which creates the dimpled appearance that so many of us hate. While the causes behind this aren't fully known, there are a few factors that can affect the severity of its appearance. According to research published in 2005 in the Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, changes to the underlying skin structure, namely the collagen bands or fibers that join the upper levels of skin to blood vessels, suggest that collagen loss plays a role. Another factor is how well the body metabolizes fat buildup, with researchers noting that poor circulation of fluids can play a role in tissue accumulation.

However, sea kelp can target these two aspects in several ways. First, since they aid in collagen synthesis, they may be able to restore the collagen malfunction involved in cellulite. Second, studies highlight they can help our bodies to metabolize or break down fatty tissue better. They also have the ability to stimulate blood circulation, which may help to stop the buildup of fatty tissues, according to Cosmetics Journal in 2018.

Sea kelp's anti-inflammatory and anti-allergy effects
Inflammation is the immune system's response to damage or irritants. During inflammation, certain chemicals and cells act as mediators that make the blood vessels widen so that white blood cells can attack foreign entities, but in doing so, they actually trigger our pain response. And together, this can cause discomfort, swelling, and fever (per the National Institutes of Health).
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Anti-inflammatories (like aspirin and ibuprofen) usually have the ability to prevent these inflammatory mediators — specifically, an enzyme called cyclooxygenase (or COX), which stops the body from inducing the processes involved in an inflammatory response, according to WebMD. But what's interesting is that sea kelp also have this effect, giving them anti-inflammatory properties.

As 2021 research in the Journal of Natural Product Communications explains, the phlorotannins compounds (an astringent chemical in the sea kelp's cell wall) inhibit COX and other enzymes that play a role in the inflammatory response. In addition, they suppress the immune system chemical histamine, which plays a role in allergies.

Aids in strengthening nails
Brittle or damaged nails may be associated with deficiencies in various nutrients, according to Healthline. For instance, iron deficiencies can cause splitting; calcium deficiency can make nails weak; and white spots can be a sign of low zinc. There are also components like thyroid issues that can cause discoloration or brittleness, which the mineral selenium may help to mediate.

Sea kelp is a rich repository of such minerals. For example, a 2020 article in Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition Journal has found such brown algae species are high in selenium, calcium, potassium, and iodine, as well as quantities of iron, zinc, magnesium, and phosphorus.

It's also been marked as an antifungal agent, which can keep harmful nail infections at bay. For instance, according to studies published in 2019 in the Journal of Oceanology and Limnology, they're particularly good at tackling dermatophyte fungi, which can damage nail strength by feeding on keratin.

It can improve the shininess and softness of hair
Fucoidans, a type of (polysaccharides) complex carbohydrate, can not only help with hair growth, they can also be helpful in maintaining the gloss and texture of hair. A 2009 article in Kosmetische Praxis explains that polysaccharides can act as a film on the hair and skin barrier, which allows these barriers time to recover from external damage and retain moisture.

Another factor in the overall appearance of hair is keratin. Examinations of hair anatomy show that this is the protein that makes up the main structure of our hair, most of which sits in the cortex, the middle layer of the hair. And it is this layer of keratin that gives the hair its strength and elasticity, so its loss or degradation can make the hair brittle and weak, per a 2017 article in the Journal of Materials Science and Engineering.

This is where the fucoidans of sea kelp can help, as a 2019 study highlights that it increases keratin synthesis by activating the genes involved in promoting their production, per Journal of Marine Drugs. And in doing so, this can enhance the smooth, shiny quality of hair as a whole.

It can reduce the appearance of dark circles
Dark circles are a specific type of hyperpigmentation that occurs under the eyes. According to Medical News Today, some causes of undereye circles include anemia, lack of sleep, thinning skin, frequent rubbing in the area, smoking, eye treatments, and allergies. Sun exposure and certain nutritional deficiencies may be other causes. Because some of the causes are inevitable, such as aging or ethnicity (non-white people have a higher tendency to have dark undereye circles), this is a condition that's often difficult to treat, per Healthline.

This is where sea kelp can be helpful. Research in the Journal of Marine Drugs in 2018 notes that a combination of the compounds we find in brown algae species can target many different causes of dark circles at once. For instance, they help to inhibit melanin synthesis, which causes pigmentation, or induce collagen production, as they are filled with minerals that can help combat nutritional deficiencies.

Can help soothe irritated skin
But the benefits of sea kelp fucoidans don't end there. They're also humectants, a type of substance that can seal in water, creating a barrier around dry or irritated skin. There are various types of humectants that can do this, one of the most common being hyaluronic acid, a type of complex carbohydrate, per WebMD.

Of course, as we know, sea kelp is naturally rich in this humectant, but research in the Journal of Clinical Medicine in 2015 explains that irritation can also be the result of the chemical histamine that the immune system makes. It stops the skin from making certain proteins, which impairs the skin barrier. And this can cause the itching and inflammation you get when your skin's irritated.

Sea kelp fucoidans can also be helpful because of their antipruritic (itch-relieving) effects. As a 2012 article in the Journal of Phytotherapy Research explains, this works because they reduce the presence of histamine and suppress the corresponding inflammatory response.

​The shifting monsoon season has prompted seaweed farmers to adopt new techniques in response. La Samiun says he now visits his seaweed farm on sunny and windy days to raise the rope to the surface in an effort to prevent any bacteria from developing on the seaweed. On rainy days, he sinks the line a little deeper. “The reason for this is to prevent [the seaweed] from catching disease,” La Samiun says.

But the bacterial infestation can only be delayed for so long in these warming waters, and an early harvest is the only way to ensure it doesn’t take hold of the seaweed crop. For the farmers, this means hauling in less seaweed that they planned for, leaving them with less money from the sale. Indonesia was the biggest producer of the E. cottonii before 2014, growing more than 8 million metric tons a year. Today it’s second to China, but still accounts for 38% of the global supply of this red seaweed.

The industry took a massive blow from 2014-2016 when farms were hit by the bacterial disease, triggered by a rise in water temperature and changes in salinity and light conditions, the typical signs of a changing climate. The value of the global seaweed market in 2017 was more than $4 billion, and is estimated to exceed $9 billion by 2024. E. cottonii accounts for 90% of this market. In addition to its uses in the food and cosmetics industry, the seaweed is also being explored for alternatives uses, including as biomass for fuel, as well as for use in fertilizers, animal feed, and wastewater treatment. ​Syahidin Ali Maruf, another seaweed farmer from Wael village, says his strategy to deal with the impacts of a changing climate is to keep changing his farm site according to weather patterns. But he says he’d prefer a return to a more predictable climate.
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“If it continues to be unstable, there’s little we can do,” he says.