What Does Retinol Do? Experts Break Down the Go-To Ingredient

No skincare ingredient quite compares to the power of retinol. Great for all skin types, this all-star ingredient has been around the beauty scene for decades and has been beloved by dermatologists and skin experts alike. “Retinol first gained popularity for its ability to treat acne," says Yashi Shrestha. "Then, in the 1980s and 1990s, retinol became even more famous in the skincare industry due to research showing its anti-aging benefits."

The professionals are also fans of the ingredient. “Dermatologists love retinol because it’s very multi-tasking,” adds Naana Boakye, M.D. "In addition to tackling acne and fine lines, it can also address psoriasis, hyperpigmentation, and other skin concerns."

As a result, it’s hard to walk down a beauty aisle without seeing retinol highlighted as the star ingredient of a product. But if you’re unsure of what it exactly is and what it does, you’ve come to the right place. 

What Is Retinol?
Retinol (also sometimes referred to as vitamin A1, all-trans-retinol, or pure retinol) is one of the many types of retinoids, which describes all forms of vitamin A; all retinoids eventually turn into retinoic acid, which is the active form of vitamin A that is responsible for the anti-aging and acne-fighting benefits. While retinol and retinoids are used interchangeably, there is a significant difference between the two.

Let's start with retinol. Available over-the-counter, "retinol is a less-potent form of retinoid converted into retinoic acid in the skin," says Shrestha. Though retinol is a less potent form of a retinoid, “it still demonstrates many of the same benefits like increasing skin cell turnover and stimulating collagen production,” adds Tiffany J. Libby, M.D.

Meanwhile, while "retinoids" is the umbrella term for all forms of vitamin A, it's often used to describe versions that are available by prescription only, since they offer retinoic acid. As a result, "they are more potent than retinol and can penetrate the skin more deeply, making them more effective for treating fine lines, wrinkles, and acne," says Shrestha. They include tretinoid, tazarotene, and adapalene, which is currently the only form available over-the-counter.

If you’re trying to get savvy about the ingredient labels on your skincare products, make this mental note: “One ingredient that is sometimes confused with retinol is retinyl palmitate," says Shrestha. "While both are forms of vitamin A, retinyl palmitate is an ester of vitamin A that is less potent than retinol and is not converted into retinoic acid in the skin." As a result, it's not as effective.

To geek out further about retinol, “there are other compounds along the conversion pathway from retinol to retinoic acid," says Dr. Libby. "It starts with retinyl esters to retinol, which then converts to retinaldehyde, and, finally, retinoic acid. These other precursor molecules are often used as well in cosmeceuticals and can be confusing to consumers when deciding which to choose."

Clearly, the world of retinol can get pretty tricky, especially for a novice. But a quick chat with your dermatologist can help you determine what the best type and strength of retinol is best for your skin. 

How Does Retinol Work?
“Retinol binds to retinoid receptors in the skin cells, which triggers several cellular responses that lead to skin rejuvenation and improvement in various skin concerns from fine lines to dullness to acne,” says Shrestha.

Basically, retinol signals to the skin to normalize skin cell turnover quicker and more efficiently. “The science behind retinoids and retinol is complex and involves multiple cellular processes," she says. "However, the result is a significant improvement in the appearance and health of the skin."

The Benefits of Retinol
We’ve already talked about how retinol encourages skin cell turnover and increases collagen, but what exactly does it all mean for your skin? Let’s dive into the specific benefits of retinol:

It improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
“When retinol is applied to the skin, it penetrates the deeper layers of the skin and stimulates the production of collagen, a protein that provides support and structure to the skin," says Shrestha. Since collagen production decreases as we age, leading to wrinkles and sagging skin, increasing collagen via retinol can offset these effects.

It evens out texture and brightens skin
Retinol also helps to boost skin cell turnover. "This helps to even out skin tone and texture," says Shrestha. Another bonus here: Retinol offers antioxidant properties, so it help repair and protect skin from damage caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules that contribute to fine lines and dark spots.

It helps clear up acne
Studies have shown that retinol is extremely effective in treating and preventing acne because it efficiently encourages new skin cells to produce. Since dead skin cells and excess sebum buildup are the main culprits of blemishes, retinol gets ahead of acne by shedding those old cells more quickly.

How to Use Retinol in Your Skincare Routine
After washing your face with a pH-balanced cleanser. A little goes a long way: “Use a pea-sized amount of product,” says Dr. Boakye. “I can’t stress enough that a small amount is plenty. Any more than that can increase irritability." Then, use a soothing moisturizer. “You want to focus on moisturizers that have good humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid that combat the dryness that can occur with retinol use,” she says.

Ideally, it should only be in your evening routine. “Retinol breaks down with sunlight making it less effective, and also has the potential to irritate your skin,” says Dr. Boakye. If you need to use it during the day, “apply it at least 30 minutes before you head outdoors — and make sure to layer it under your sunscreen,” she says. Start by using retinol once a week to build up your skin’s tolerance. If you’re not experiencing any adverse side effects like redness, excess dryness, or stinging, from there, “you can increase retinol usage to two or three times a week,” says Dr. Boakye.

Used consistently, it’ll take a solid “30 days for the skin cells to cycle from the bottom layer to the top. So, at minimum, it will take around this time to start seeing visible improvements in skin tone and texture with using retinol," Dr. Libby says. From there, it'll be a few months before you see meaningful changes in your fine lines and wrinkles.


Still Not Using Retinol? Here's Your Beginner's Guide


How Can Retinol Benefit Your Skin?
First, it's important to understand the ingredient itself. Retinoid is the blanket term for derivatives of vitamin A that get converted into retinoic acid. Retinol is the most common type of retinoid and contains a lower concentration of the active retinoic acid ingredient than other retinoids. Because retinol is less potent, retinol products are easy to purchase over the counter, unlike products that feature other, more potent types of retinoids and require a prescription to procure. For example, a 0.1 percent retinoid cream you'd get from your dermatologist is much stronger than a one percent retinol cream you'd purchase from the drugstore. Since retinol features a smaller concentration of retinoic acid, it may be more tolerable and less irritating, especially for those with sensitive skin.


To understand what retinol can do for your skin, it's helpful to first understand what vitamin A is and how it affects your body. Vitamin A is essential to new cell growth and stimulating collagen production. When cell turnover slows down, signs of aging become more visible. Think: wrinkles, fine lines, dark spots, discoloration, and uneven texture. When applied topically via a skin-care product, retinol can help reduce signs of aging: strengthening the epidermal protective function, reducing transepidermal water loss, and protecting collagen from degrading. It can also help treat acne by decreasing sebum production and preventing dead skin from clogging pores through cell turnover. In other words, it may just be the holy grail ingredient you've been seeking for a smoother, brighter, and more even complexion.


How Often Should You Use Retinol?
Slow and steady wins the race when it comes to retinol — it's best to gradually introduce the ingredient into your regimen. Dermatologists often advise that your skin may need time to "retinize," or work up its tolerance, for about six weeks before you can use it with more frequency or at a higher concentration. For example, consider starting out by using it once a week for six weeks to get your skin acclimated before progressing to using it twice a week.


What Other Skin-Care Ingredients Should You Avoid Alongside Retinol?
Because retinol is a harsh active ingredient, it's recommended to avoid mixing and layering it with other harsh actives (i.e. salicylic acid, glycolic acid, vitamin C, etc.) or using it on days when you exfoliate to help avoid irritation.


How Should You Apply a Retinol Product?
Apply a pea-sized amount and wait for it to fully absorb (ideally 20 minutes) before applying a moisturizer, since any product applied quickly after may dilute the retinol. However, some users, especially those with sensitive skin, may benefit from a method called the retinol sandwich, in which a layer of retinol is sandwiched in between two layers of moisturizer to purposely help dilute the effects of the retinol and reduce irritation



On your retinol "off" days, apply soothing and moisturizing products to give your skin a chance to recover before it's time for your next "on" day. Additionally, retinol can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, so always use retinol at night and apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher the morning after use.


What Should You Expect When Using Retinol For the First Time?
Because your skin is experiencing more rapid cell turnover, light flaking or peeling and worsened acne is completely normal for the first few weeks as your skin purges. It's also common for first-time retinol users to experience mild irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity as your skin adjusts, but anything beyond that — intense flaking, redness, even burning — is a sign that you should stop and consult your dermatologist. Lastly, be patient — it can take up to 12 weeks for you to start to see any results from retinol, so keep at it, and one day soon you'll be wondering how you ever lived without it.


How Does Retinol Help With Acne?
“Retinols work by stimulating faster skin cell turnover,” says Dr. Goldbach. "This prevents clogged pores, which is often a major factor that leads to blemishes." In addition, retinol helps regulate sebum production, gets rid of dead skin cells more efficiently, calms acne-induced inflammation, and smooths out unevenness from acne scarring left behind from previous breakouts. 

As much of a miracle worker as retinol can be, certain types of acne respond to it better than others, such as comedonal acne (think whiteheads) and inflammatory acne. "However, for hormonal acne or more severe acne like nodulocystic acne, you usually need to use a prescription retinoid oral medication, since it won’t respond only to topical medication alone,” says Dr. Viera. 

How to Use Retinol for Acne
If you’re new to retinol, slow and steady is the name of the game to help prevent adverse reactions. “For acne-prone skin, start by applying retinol three times a week and then increase the frequency until it’s tolerated nightly. If you have sensitive skin, try the skin cycling method and use it every four days or so,” says Dr. Viera. Speaking of moisturizer, to combat the dryness that can be a result of retinol, pair it with a nourishing moisturizer. “Look for one with ceramides, glycerin, or hyaluronic acid that are super gentle and effective at pulling hydration into your skin,” says Dr. Viera. 

To minimize potential irritation, “avoid using retinol with other acids like vitamin C, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and benzoyl peroxide,” she advises. With your dermatologist’s help, you can figure out a plan on how to alternate these ingredients in your routine. However, especially in the beginning, you want to ensure you’re not using too many new ingredients simultaneously. Whatever you do, don’t forget your SPF: “Since retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, use it during your nighttime routine and be extra diligent about using sunscreen during the day,” says Dr. Goldbach. 

How Long Will It Take to See Results?
As with all skincare, patience is key. “It can take months and months to see a real change in your skin after starting a new retinol product,” says Dr. Goldbach. So for the best results, use retinol consistently for clear skin in the long run.
What Are the Drawbacks?
As with other skincare ingredients that cause cell turnover, retinol might cause skin purging. “You have to tough out that period of two to four weeks. Use excellent emollients to soothe your skin meanwhile,” says Dr. Boakye. Another common side effect is irritation and flaking, a.k.a. a process called retinization. "Retinization results from the revved-up skin cycle renewal process and causes skin flaking, which can annoy some patients," Dr. Libby says. "It generally lasts for around a month and signals that your retinol is working, so I encourage patients to stick it out during this period and continue moisturizing."

When to Avoid Retinol
Though retinol is a weaker form of retinoid and is generally well tolerated by all skin types, “it’s possible it can still irritate,” says Dr. Boakye. “Those with very sensitive skin who are still feeling reactive even with a small amount of retinol once a week can try a more gentle retinol alternative like bakuchiol,"

Also, those who are pregnant and breastfeeding should avoid using retinol. Though there isn’t any known link to congenital disabilities, doctors always recommend erring on the side of caution. A retinol alternative is a safe bet here, too.
Does Retinol Help with Acne? Dermatologists ExplainWhat Are the Drawbacks?
As with other skincare ingredients that cause cell turnover, retinol might cause skin purging. “You have to tough out that period of two to four weeks. Use excellent emollients to soothe your skin meanwhile,” says Dr. Boakye. Another common side effect is irritation and flaking, a.k.a. a process called retinization. "Retinization results from the revved-up skin cycle renewal process and causes skin flaking, which can annoy some patients," Dr. Libby says. "It generally lasts for around a month and signals that your retinol is working, so I encourage patients to stick it out during this period and continue moisturizing."

When to Avoid Retinol
Though retinol is a weaker form of retinoid and is generally well tolerated by all skin types, “it’s possible it can still irritate,” says Dr. Boakye. “Those with very sensitive skin who are still feeling reactive even with a small amount of retinol once a week can try a more gentle retinol alternative like bakuchiol,"

Also, those who are pregnant and breastfeeding should avoid using retinol. Though there isn’t any known link to congenital disabilities, doctors always recommend erring on the side of caution. A retinol alternative is a safe bet here, too.
Does Retinol Help with Acne? Dermatologists Explain