WHY YOU SHOULD BE STEAMING YOUR FACE

“Skin steaming has surged in popularity recently because it’s so simple and it consistently gives results,” says cosmetic doctor Dr. Sophie Shotter. “There’s a renewed focus on achieving naturally radiant skin,” agrees A-list skin expert Sarah Chapman. “Steaming is perfect for this, since it boosts the skin’s overall health and creates a dewy glow.”

What is face steaming?
“Pores can’t actually open and close,” says facialist Debbie Thomas. “They’re always open – steam just makes them more pliable.” While extractions (the process of clearing a clogged pore) should be left to professionals, regular steaming will help melt oil and debris trapped in pores and prevent future build-up. Our experts unanimously agree that steaming five to 10 minutes maximum, two to three times per week, is ideal. “You’ll see a clearer complexion over time,” says Chapman. “[When steaming], expect to see your skin flush, whatever your complexion, as the heat increases micro-circulation, which means more oxygen and nutrients can travel to the tissues, boosting collagen and elastin production and giving a rosy glow.” The steam itself “adds instant hydration, strengthens the skin’s barrier and helps to plump and smooth out any fine lines, too”.

Does facial steaming have any benefits?
The short answer is yes! But for the long answer—including some important caveats—keep reading.

1. It may boost exfoliation.
Turns out, there may be some benefits of steaming your face for acne, but probably not for the reasons you thought. “There is a misconception that steaming the face opens your pores and unclogs them,” Caroline Robinson, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and founder of Tone Dermatology in Chicago, tells Bougeoir. “Our pores are fixed structures that do not open and close in response to changes in temperature.”

What actually happens when you expose your face to steam? The very top layer of dead skin, called the stratum corneum, softens and becomes more permeable, loosening up any oils, dirt, or acne-causing bacteria hanging out on the skin surface so it can be removed, which is a form of physical exfoliation in itself, Anthony Rossi, M.D., board-certified dermatologist at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center, tells Bougeoir. Over-exfoliating can cause issues like redness or abrasion, but after you steam, you can use a dry cloth on your face (using circular motions) to gently continue exfoliation and remove any of that dead skin, oil, dirt, or bacteria, Dr. Rossi adds.

2. Steaming can increase your circulation.
A quick 10-minute steam is enough to get your blood flowing. “The higher temperature signals the brain to dilate your blood vessels in that area and increase circulation,” Dr. Rossi says. That increased circulation can temporarily give you a flushed (depending on your skin tone) and healthy glow. Plus, the influx of blood flow makes it easier for oxygen to circulate to your skin cells, Dr. Rossi adds. Post-steaming could also be the best time to apply a topical antioxidant serum (something containing vitamin C or vitamin E) to deliver that antioxidant boost more directly to your pores, since the skin barrier is loosened up.

3. Your skin might bask in some added hydration.
Theoretically, since you’re blasting your face with warm vaporized water, steaming can bring moisture into the skin. “Warm steaming can be used to temporarily hydrate the skin, but it can also be drying if done for too long,” Geeta Yadav, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Science Dermatology, tells Bougeoir.

Because the top layer of the skin becomes softer and more permeable when it’s exposed to the steam, it’s easy for hydration to come in at first. But you can easily lose hydration from over-steaming, too, through a process called transepidermal water loss, Dr. Robinson explains. Basically, the skin’s barrier becomes “leakier” because it’s softer, and water can more easily seep out. This permeability helps with exfoliation, but experts recommend keeping your face-steaming sessions short to avoid accidentally making your skin drier. (We’ll explain just how short to keep them below.)

4. It may help your skin absorb skin-care products better.
Again, almost all potential benefits of steaming your face, including product absorption, go back to the stratum corneum softening up. This increased permeability of the top layer of your skin allows products to enter more easily. Because, as we mentioned, hydration can be lost in the process, you’ll want to replenish your skin with some seriously moisturizing products immediately after you steam. “How you treat your skin after your steam directly correlates to how hydrated your skin stays,” Dr. Yadav says.

The key is using serums with humectants, like hyaluronic acid or glycerin, which draw moisture into the skin from the surface, Dr. Yadav explains. Next, you’ll want to apply a thicker moisturizer that contains ingredients that can strengthen the skin barrier and prevent moisture loss. “When the skin’s moisture barrier is weakened or damaged, the level of transepidermal water loss increases, leaving skin parched from the inside out,” she adds. Look for a moisturizer with ceramides on the label, which Dr. Yadav says act like “grout” between your skin cells to prevent water from escaping and seal in moisture. And those thicker, more hydrating moisturizer formulas will take longer for your skin to absorb, keeping your skin’s moisture barrier intact.

How to do skin steaming properly
It’s essential to cleanse your skin thoroughly before and after steaming. “Cleansing before ensures that dirt, pollution or makeup doesn’t work its way into the more receptive barrier layer,” says Thomas. “Cleansing after prevents sweat from the steam and other impurities from encouraging bacterial growth, causing breakouts or irritation.” Steaming is an active step in your regime, notes Dr. Shotter, so use a gentle cleanser to avoid irritating the skin. Try an oil-based balm to break down sebum or makeup formulas without stripping the skin. When it comes to steaming, many at-home devices use micro-fine mists to soften debris more effectively, too. “My Pro Hydro-Mist Steamer emits negatively charged steam particles,” says Chapman. “They’re attracted to the positive ions in our skin, which draw the mist deeper into the pores, so it gives better results than regular steam does.” Always position your face about 20cm away from the steamer nozzle. If you still prefer the traditional method, keep a similar distance over a bowl of hot water (105 Fahrenheit/40 Celsius is best) and cover your head and the bowl with a towel to contain the steam. As an added bonus, the moist air will help to open and clear blocked airways, too.

Should I wash my face after steaming: The short answer
This one’s easy.  In short; you should definitely be cleansing your face before steaming.  Whether you clean it afterwards too though is entirely a matter of choice. If you’re worried about all that sweat being left on your face after steaming then you can either splash your face with lukewarm water, use a toner to remove any residual sweat and dirt, or do another gentle cleanse. Generally, it’s best to cleanse your face before steaming. Cleansing your face beforehand helps remove any makeup, dirt, or impurities from the surface, allowing the steam to penetrate your pores more effectively and provide a deeper cleanse.

After steaming and cleansing a second time, you can continue with your regular skincare routine, such as applying toner, serums, and moisturizer. Just be careful not to overdo it with harsh cleansers (which can irritate skin and ultimately nix your glow) and avoid ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, or alpha hydroxy acids around steaming.  The combination of heat and these strong actives can easily cause redness and dryness. Instead stick to a gentle cleanser suited to your skin type. 

Is facial steaming right for you?
Chapman uses steam in nearly all her facials to hydrate, detox and clarify in one step. “If you’re concerned about signs of aging, the heat treatment also works to plump out fine lines for a smoother appearance.” According to Dr. Shotter, congested, acne-prone and dull skin will benefit most from a full steam session. However, she advises against it if you have rosacea or thread veins, or are prone to redness and flushing. “The heat can dilate the blood vessels, worsening these inflammatory conditions.”

Upgrade your skincare routine with steam
Using a serum or mask while you steam will ramp up results. Chapman recommends steaming over an exfoliating serum for a deeper cleanse, or a hyaluronic acid-based serum or mask for an extra shot of hydration. Post-steam, it’s absolutely essential to lock moisture into skin immediately. “If you leave it for longer than a minute, you’ll get evaporation, which leads to skin dehydration instead,” warns Dr. Shotter. She suggests keeping a sheet mask in the fridge to use here. “The cold helps to quickly close pores and lock in hydration.” Using a skin icing or cryo device or globes, or even a chilled face roller over a nourishing hyaluronic acid, ceramide or vitamin B5-rich serum, works just as well. “Your skin will be primed for better absorption of active ingredients, so I like to really massage my Platinum Stem Cell Elixir into skin to get the most out of the plumping and rejuvenating stem cells,” says Chapman. Whatever you apply post-steam, make sure it’s non-comedogenic (not clogging). “It will penetrate more deeply, which can otherwise cause problems with pore blockage,” says Dr. Shotter.